Service Fuse Removal | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Service Fuse Removal in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

E

ezzzekiel

Got wrong today :(
problem with earthing at property, was splitting tails to install shower db had both a pme and tns setup, had a good ze for tns but also a bad read on the pme.

got leccy board out and he had a go for pulling the fuse, and then he got on the phone to his office and reported me :(

something really should be done to allow working electricians to pull fuses without the aggravation.

Anyone ever seen a dual pme/tns setup?
 
hi guys
a quick question as you say to comply with eawr
what is the process if the tails need upgrading
pull fuse connect old tails to new in a henley block then tell dno of tenp connection

or ask them to upgrade first and fit a isolator switch then wont need to pull fuse sorry if this sounds dumb still learning
and dont want to end up dead or reported for doing it wrong
 
hi guys
a quick question as you say to comply with eawr
what is the process if the tails need upgrading
pull fuse connect old tails to new in a henley block then tell dno of tenp connection

or ask them to upgrade first and fit a isolator switch then wont need to pull fuse sorry if this sounds dumb still learning
and dont want to end up dead or reported for doing it wrong

It would seem that some DNOs are prepared to install isolator switches and some aren't.
Mine (Southern Electric) are only prepared to come out and isolate the circuit, then re-enegize it once you have completed your work. God only knows why they have decided to adopt this approach :mad:
 
I think you may find that you are indeed in breach of the Electricity at Work Regulations if you were to pull the main fuse(s) without having conducted a proper risk assessment and using appropriate PPE.

As well as being in breach of other statutory documents.

No-one is saying that you should be working live - however this does not mean that you can legally pull the fuse. The correct (and lawful) procedure is quite clear.
 
my normal procedure is to install 100a wylex isolator (as used by meter guys, have a mate who supplies me off the back of his van) then if anything comes back i never pulled anything there was already a isolator fitted. not saying this is right , just my own personnal work around.

i still hold a valid pto (lasts 3 years and got 2 to go) so can always argue i was trained in fuse removal procedures.
 
my normal procedure is to install 100a wylex isolator (as used by meter guys, have a mate who supplies me off the back of his van) then if anything comes back i never pulled anything there was already a isolator fitted. not saying this is right , just my own personnal work around.

i still hold a valid pto (lasts 3 years and got 2 to go) so can always argue i was trained in fuse removal procedures.

I used to do this but find isolators have shot up in price. May be interested in revisiting the practice if I could get any isolators off the back of a van *hint hint*.
 
I'm paying more than that for Clicks. Get cheaper on Fleabay now and again but I seem to spend all my time on wholesalers websites and frankly don't have the time at the moment to get into bidding wars.

Crazy that, righ or wrong, if I wanted to I could get a 2 way board with a 100a incomer, use that as a rough makeshift isolator, have the option of 2 ways away from RCD for an alarm or whatever, and still have change from what I would spend on an isolator. I haven't actually done this (just don't bother with an isolator that I used to do as part of a board change), it just strikes me as odd.
 
It would seem that some DNOs are prepared to install isolator switches and some aren't.
Mine (Southern Electric) are only prepared to come out and isolate the circuit, then re-enegize it once you have completed your work. God only knows why they have decided to adopt this approach :mad:
If you are a member of Nic, Napit or ECA then SSE have a scheme whereby, as long as you inform them, you can pull the fuse for routine maintenance. They will supply you with temporary seals and will then reseal the service fuse. Details here:Removal Of Fuses.
Hope this helps
 
the reason i ask is my brother had some work done a couple of years ago
he had a garage converted into part of his kitchen
the so called electrician fitted a new 12 way consumer unit which is supplying the sockets in the new half of kitchen and lights in that side and thats it
the rest of the house is on a old wylex fuseboard with bs3036 fuses 4 of supplying the existing
the tails that are coming from the meter are 16mm non sheathed ito henley block and split to both 25mm new tails to new board and old 16mm to old board
the neutral 16mm i can see bare conductor
the gas has been upgraded to 10mm
the water is still 6mm and there is evidence of burning and can see bare conductor in a few places where insulation has melted
the work is not of a good standard
the seals are already missing from the cut out fuse and not sure now but may be missing at the meter but not deffo on this
I would like to improve it for him and then maybe use this for my assessment with elecsa or nic not decided which
by transferring all circuits to new board after improving bonding will need to fit rcbos in new board as only has 1 rcd protecting half of the board
the meter tails need upgrading to 25mm sheathed
but will carry out a pir first to check everything as i feel there will be other issues

so is my best course of action to get DNO fit a new isolator then it will be easier to carry out at convenience to our kid
 

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