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Shower Fault???

Paul.M

-
Supporter
Call out yesterday "my shower does not work".

Disconnected at the shower and C/U, no sign of a local pullcord or iso switch, home owner does not know if they have one?

Test results IR ranged from 2-15 M Ohms in between all conductors! No sign of recent building works or DIY, cable and shower installed about ten years ago so should not be giving these results.

Traced the 10mm t&e from the cu to a switch hidden under the kitchen cupboard. At last we find the problem.

20141010_125645.jpg

This is what happens when terminations are not tight enough or the cables are squeezed together, touching with force in the back box. Notice the melting insulation on the conductors were they have been touching since install. Note to you all, use a double back box and keep the cables away from each other.
 
Call out yesterday "my shower does not work".

Disconnected at the shower and C/U, no sign of a local pullcord or iso switch, home owner does not know if they have one?

Test results IR ranged from 2-15 M Ohms in between all conductors! No sign of recent building works or DIY, cable and shower installed about ten years ago so should not be giving these results.

Traced the 10mm t&e from the cu to a switch hidden under the kitchen cupboard. At last we find the problem.

View attachment 26621

This is what happens when terminations are not tight enough or the cables are squeezed together, touching with force in the back box. Notice the melting insulation on the conductors were they have been touching since install. Note to you all, use a double back box and keep the cables away from each other.

How are you going to rectify the problem? are you going to run a new cable and install a pull cord isolator near to the shower?
 
that's not one of my jobs., can tell because the fan is not tapped off it. :ack2:
 
Good question Ste, like it.

I got this job through a builder friend of mine that is about to start work on the bathroom. Once he starts ripping off the old tiles and shower cubical I will put an Iso switch on the other side of the wall in the hallway. Not enough cable to go to the ceiling for a pullcord but enough cable to get to the hallway wall. The old burnt out switch has been replaced yesterday, cable tested out fine so it does not need rewiring.

Where the old/now new switch is, I have a question for you:-

Can I leave it in place so there will two Iso switches on the same shower circuit or do I need to turn the kitchen cupboard switch into a junction using one of these

j box.jpg

100A junction box aka coffin due to its shape. (the cable in the pic is 16mm just to show you the size etc).
 
what's wrong with a bit of choc strip and tape ( use 2 layers of tape as per b&q instructions ).
 
Can I leave it in place so there will two Iso switches on the same shower circuit or do I need to turn the kitchen cupboard switch into a junction using one of these

View attachment 26623

100A junction box aka coffin due to its shape. (the cable in the pic is 16mm just to show you the size etc).

Nice joint mate, but the floor isn't really the best location.
There must be reg about tripping hazards.
 
Ha.....nice move...

personally i would change it out for a junction box and only have one isolator switch.......i see no reason to have two points of isolation on the circuit, it just gives another possible week point i.e mechanical switching. plus for testing you wouldnt have to switch two points.

Ha prob wrong but thats my answer.
 
Nice joint mate, but the floor isn't really the best location.
There must be reg about tripping hazards.

It lives behind a kitchen plinth attached to the wall lol.

Ha.....nice move...

personally i would change it out for a junction box and only have one isolator switch.......i see no reason to have two points of isolation on the circuit, it just gives another possible week point i.e mechanical switching. plus for testing you wouldnt have to switch two points.

Ha prob wrong but thats my answer.

Great answer, only thing to add is that with a neon in the switch you would have to discount two points for an IR reading (L-N) and it is not the easiest of switches to locate.
 
It lives behind a kitchen plinth attached to the wall lol.



Great answer, only thing to add is that with a neon in the switch you would have to discount two points for an IR reading (L-N) and it is not the easiest of switches to locate.

Cheers mate......
 
Good question Ste, like it.

I got this job through a builder friend of mine that is about to start work on the bathroom. Once he starts ripping off the old tiles and shower cubical I will put an Iso switch on the other side of the wall in the hallway. Not enough cable to go to the ceiling for a pullcord but enough cable to get to the hallway wall. The old burnt out switch has been replaced yesterday, cable tested out fine so it does not need rewiring.

Where the old/now new switch is, I have a question for you:-

Can I leave it in place so there will two Iso switches on the same shower circuit or do I need to turn the kitchen cupboard switch into a junction using one of these

View attachment 26623

100A junction box aka coffin due to its shape. (the cable in the pic is 16mm just to show you the size etc).
Never seen of those before, I'd imagine as it's screw terminations it's not classed as MF?
 
which raises a point. resin filled underground SWA joint kits. they come including screw terminal connectors and screw clamps for the braid that provides continuity for the armour. obviously, once the resin has gon in, set, and the joint is buried, how can they be deemed as accessible? comments in a sealed brown envelope with plenty of £20 notes for padding.
 

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