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Got called out last week to some failed Kitchen Lights. They had a rather clever smart dimmer switch which usefully had a led light on it to say when it was working and connected to a smartphone. This was off, so I immediately suspected the switch as a point of failure, which it was.

Anyway, the 5 kitchen lights were 12V DC downlights connected to an unknown type of LED Driver in the ceiling void. They had a bought an identical light switch for me to install, so thinking this would be a quick change, I installed as per instructions, and hey presto everything worked....for about 5 minutes. I was just about to put everything together when smoke appeared from the back of the switch along with crackling and that usual smell of failing electronics.

So I made safe the wiring (which showed no signs of burning) and replaced it with a standard wall switch, which worked perfectly.

So my question is simply, what on earth went on here ? I've never had a dimmer switch burn out before, plenty of ones that cause leds to flicker, but this is a first.

I'm happy if someone could give me a technical answer to why this switch burnt out, and what I could do to solve the issue (if there is a solution or if they are stuck with non dimmable lights).

Thanks
 
Was this smart switch replacing a regular 2 way?

I had a customer who had wired one up.... but the way it was wired, he sent 230v into a terminal designed for a elv signal from another smart switch.
 
Yes it replaced a regular two way. So it had a line, and switched line to the back of the switch, no neutral.

My obvious thought is that either the driver is of a non-dimmable type or the LED's are or both, or the driver is totally of the wrong type for the load or any combination in between. What I don't understand is why the dimmer would quite literally burn out. Circuit is on a 6A MCB and RCD protected. Oh it burnt out when the LED's were at their maximum brightness.
 
Could there be other loads on light circuit after the suwitch? 500w flood by back door, extractor fan, kettle plugged into a socket for under cupboard lights?

Smoke suggests overloaded switch.
A 6A breaker will supply 1.5kw continuously, not many dimmer switches can cope with that.
 
Just to update. When I investigated, I found a transformer that was not only a non-dimmable one, but not rated correctly for the lights. So currently the client has a standard 1-way switch, and we are discussing a way forward.
 

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