Snapped Live Wire when changing sockets

S

stevetwigs

Hi All, when changing a socket front, the red live wire snapped (old twin 2.5mm and earth)looks like there was a nick in the insulation so I have lost about 30mm of the end of the wire and now the live wont stretch to the live terminal on the socket front.
Is there a way of extending the red wire? Is crimping a possibility? I would ideally just replace the whole length of wire but its plastered into the wall and I have just decorated with the sockets being the last job on the list. Want to find a sensible and legal solution to the problem hope someone can help.

Thanks
 
I have never used wagos on the ring main as they are rated to 24 amps (I Think)

That said I think most sockets MK (excluded) are only rated to 20Amps,

However if we use a junction box it must be rated to 32 Amps.

Am I being to fussy and a 24A wago would be fine on the ring???
 
I have never used wagos on the ring main as they are rated to 24 amps (I Think)

That said I think most sockets MK (excluded) are only rated to 20Amps,

However if we use a junction box it must be rated to 32 Amps.

Am I being to fussy and a 24A wago would be fine on the ring???

The ones I use are the lever ones, spec here:
Code:
Wago 222-413 Lever Connector 
4.0mm - 3 Pole 
  
 
Compact connector 3 conductor terminal blocks with levers
max. continuous service temperature 85°c

 
 Connect: 3 Cables
Colour: Grey / Orange
Cable size [mm²] 
Solid - [mm²] 1.0 - 2.5 mm²
Stranded - [mm²] 1.0 - 4.0 mm² 
Voltage: 240/440v
Height: 14.5 mm 
Width: 17.0 mm 
Depth: 20.5 mm 
Strip length: from 9mm to 10mm
[B]Current: 32 A
[/B]

Notice that you should NOT use 4mm solid core though.
 
Hi All, when changing a socket front, the red live wire snapped (old twin 2.5mm and earth)looks like there was a nick in the insulation so I have lost about 30mm of the end of the wire and now the live wont stretch to the live terminal on the socket front.
Is there a way of extending the red wire? Is crimping a possibility? I would ideally just replace the whole length of wire but its plastered into the wall and I have just decorated with the sockets being the last job on the list. Want to find a sensible and legal solution to the problem hope someone can help.

Thanks

Use a though crimp - no probs reg wise either as the socket face is accessible - it will affect your readings though when you test.
 
You could solder and heat shrink, but how good are you at soldering?, too much bother and too much to go wrong.
Best way is just use a 30amp choc block and make sure its tight. That way you save on buying a ratchet crimper.
 
Trouble is even if he did use a soldering iron (thats if its mains), what happens if he only has 1 socket circuit for the whole house? He obviously cant turn the power on while the cables are not connected to power the soldering iron. Its just making the job complicated. Just use a wago or connector strip, at the end of the day the connector will be accessible behind the socket front whichever you use.
 
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