Some times I really feel sorry for some clients

[Octopus]

Today I got a call from a lady today, asking me if I could come and provide a price to move a socket.

So I duely turned up at the prearranged time.....

1. The had ordered a new cooker from Comet - who had turned up to install it and have refused due to the location of the socket above being "illegal"



2. They've marked the two tiles where a new socket would be OK as the new cooker is a gas unit and only requires a socket (13a plug) supply

3. No RCD protection in the house - so a single RCD socket in the kitchen would be required!

4. No bonding to the gas and water - and the CU is on the opposite side of the detached house - clearly didn't like hearing about the requirement to add this before I can do anything.


This couple are elderly, and judging by the home and their reaction to what I said, don't have much money.

So what would you do.....

1. Play by the rules, insist on the bonding, RCD socket, etc??

or

2. Bend the rules and forget the bonding and RCD's??

Oh happy days!

 

[Guitarist]

Put a plug top on the cooker.

Job done?

You are not there to do a EICR you are there to put a plug top on.

Advise about crap location of socket and explain why its dangerous.

Read post #1 mate

 

[Strima]

View attachment 14193

I hope that's not the new cooker, it needs a good clean...

 

[Mark_Burgess]

Makes you wonder why the ignition system needs a mains connection, it ain't that hard to generate a spark from a battery source! Lazy manufactuers.

All about safety, the oven will be auto ignite, if the oven is on and opening and closing of the door had caused the flame to go out, it would auto ignite, a flat battery would not do that, if the power had gone down the safety gas shut off valve will operate as it can not re-ignite.

However, what would we all have done if this situation was in our own home?
Me, I'd just fit the plug, plug it in and get on with it, oh hang on, thats how my setup has been for the last 10 years except my socket outlet was just above the top of the opened glass cover. Never had a problem.
Its only that I have fitted an extractor, it has all moved.
Oh no, I did not notify it, I must be a bad man that should be shot down, reported or imprisoned.

 

[moospark]

Yes Mark. Hung, drawn and quartered. 50 mile North from me it doesn't apply.

 

[telectrix]

All about safety, the oven will be auto ignite, if the oven is on and opening and closing of the door had caused the flame to go out, it would auto ignite, a flat battery would not do that, if the power had gone down the safety gas shut off valve will operate as it can not re-ignite.

However, what would we all have done if this situation was in our own home?
Me, I'd just fit the plug, plug it in and get on with it, oh hang on, thats how my setup has been for the last 10 years except my socket outlet was just above the top of the opened glass cover. Never had a problem.
Its only that I have fitted an extractor, it has all moved.
Oh no, I did not notify it, I must be a bad man that should be shot down, reported or imprisoned.

be careful..... guitar strings make good garottes. LOL.

 

[Guitarist]

be careful..... guitar strings make good garottes. LOL.

and the BGB makes a very good "blunt instrument".... :devilish:

 

[Swicade]

Definitely a hot potato this scenario for sure:

1) Insist bonding is done at extra cost (as supply is otherside of the house it wont be cheap so hard to FoC) if they dont you walk away knowing some nugget is going to walk in and do it anyway (socket move could end up rouched in)

2) relocate socket but make customer aware Bonding needs upgradeing for safety and leave paperwork stateing bonding install was refused (preferrabley 2 signed copies by customer and yourself).

3) the ideal situation that socket is relocated and customer agree's to required bonding also being installed and pays up.

Personaly i'd be comfortable with option 2&3......option 1 would be the one giving some sleepness nights as giving 'Dave down the pub' the chance to have a play could likely add to the problem..........Having signed paperwork to cover your rear with option 2 (the less desireable) should satisfy any comeback (lets be honest here all this paperwork is only really an exercise in being able to legally pass the book and give the system someone to blame if it hits the fan).

 

[topquark]

All about safety, the oven will be auto ignite, if the oven is on and opening and closing of the door had caused the flame to go out, it would auto ignite, a flat battery would not do that, if the power had gone down the safety gas shut off valve will operate as it can not re-ignite.

.......

Then if the battery is flat there will be no flame, so the gas shutoff valve would operate the same way a boiler would work. Auto ignition is not a safety feature IMO. Power cut, shut off valve doesn't operate and gas continues to escape, power restored 3 mins later and boom!

 

[ayjay]

the flex looks discoloured and old- the cooker is old
there was a plug fitted to the flex at one time , someones removed it (as seen in post 48)

 

[electric will]

Surely in a power cut the gas valve would be sprung closed, and need power to open it working as a fail safe, that's how I'd design it anyway.

 

[Spark1979]

Whether the cooker Is battery fed or mains fed ignition an issue, gas valve opens by turning the buttons then the flame failure device takes over and holds the gas valve open, like the pilot light on old fires, hence if there is a power cut or gas disruption the gas valve will shut, if the device has flame failure devices fitted most new cookers do