Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included)...

[BHI]

Hi all,

Looking for a bit of advice please...

My Sparky is away for a while (unsure how long - family bereavement) but I need to get the kitchen walls plastered to keep things moving, so looking for confirmation of the best approach before the chases are filled, yet not doing anything that he'll need to undo / set-back the project - especially as I have only just gone firm on the appliances (and all important technical specs in the manuals!)

The appliances are:

1. Induction Hob - Logik LINDHOB10
2. Double Oven - Beko DBDM223X

The sparky still needs to fit the new CU, but has run a new 10mm2 2+E cable which will go from a 40A MCB to a recessed 47mm 2G backbox for a 45A MK Cooker Switch (yes, the one with an incorporated 13A plug socket). That part of the chase (to above the worktop) has since been hardwalled in, but I now need to plaster the short stretch below the Cooker Switch to the worktop level - and need to run cables to the hob and to the oven. My Sparky originally said that it'd be best to keep it in 10mm2 as per the supply radial, but having looked at the instruction manuals, it's clear that 10mm2 won't wire straight in to the terminal boxes - nor are they heat resistance flex...

The remainder of the 10mm2 also currently runs from the Cooker Switch backbox to another recessed 35mm 1G backbox behind (and just below) where the double oven will be fitted. This has about a 1.5m tail that might be needed to be cut and used to go from the Cooker Switch to the induction hob?

1. Induction Hob - Logik LINDHOB10:
Total power: 6.4-7.2kW
Cable type / section: H05V2V2-F 3x6mm2 / 3x2.5mm2

From the instruction manual:

Why the N1/N2 and L1/L2? European compatibility?

2. Double Oven - Beko DBDM223X
Total power: 4.8kW (main oven: 2.2kW / top oven: 2.2kW)
Fuse: min 25A
Cable type / section: H05W-FG 3x2.5mm2 or equivalent
Cable length: max 2m

From the instruction manual:


Questions
1. Obviously I don't want to invalidate the warranties by not using the manufacturer specified heat-resistant flex, but how do you safely drop from 10mm2 to the sizes mentioned? Through Cooker Connection Plates? Do these need fusing (ie FCU)?

2. Can both these appliances be safely connected to the single 45A Cooker Switch? What size 2+E to run from the Cooker Switch to the Connection Plates and/or directly to the appliances?

3. Not sure why, but having scoured this forum, I understand that the Cooker Switches with incorporated 13A plug socket can cause problems too?

I'm not going to do any more than get the cables to the right places with the right amount of tail, so your help is appreciated so I can move along with what I can in the meantime.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[drew35]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

He must be away for a long time because your last post question was in January.

 

[BHI]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

To be fair, it's only been a week so far... I'd rather he finished the whole project as he'll be signing it off - but you're right, I might need to get someone else in to just do the kitchen as progress is now being held up.

 

[oldtimer]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

So if your spark is away ? why not use another I do work for a letting agent but they have another guy they can use forgive me for questioning you but we get a lot of people coming on saying they have either been let down or their spark is off sick yet they ask questions that their own spark could answer with a phone call.

So as they say on tv Im out as I dont like sound of this it looks to me that you are a builder or joiner firing in kitchens and every so often when you hit a snag you pop in here glad to be corrected here

 

[pto]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

hi please please have a change of mind and buy a diferent make of oven and hob or next year you will be sorry

 

[BHI]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

Oh no, why do you say that? On a budget unfortunately, but are you saying that it's a false economy in the long run to buy cheap? Are they notoriously bad brands? Tried to check t'interweb for reviews...

 

[Amp David]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

Well he should of also run that 10mm from the isolation switch down to a cooker outlet plate or something similar behind the oven.

This is where you will be connecting the appliances to.

Don't see why 13 amp sockets causes issues either.

 

[ruston]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

Run the cable size to the outlet box as your spark has said. The rest of the connections are made from there and are not part of the fixed wiring and will not affect your project.

 

[BHI]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

Thanks David & Ruston - it's the area of a cooker outlet plate that I need to get the tails to so I can fill the chases.

...although this was initially going to be two separate 10mm2 cable lengths running from the cooker switch to two separate cooker outlet plates as the switch is midships between the two appliances (600mm apart).

So just use the 10mm2 that goes from the cooker switch to the flush-mounted backbox (only 35mm not 47mm deep) already in place behind (and slightly below) the double oven, and then from there, take one heat resistant flex to the oven, and double-back another to the hob in heat resistant flex?

I guess that it'd be neater / easier to access by just removing the oven rather than cutting a hole in the back panel of the base units.

Discovering that finding heat flex is a bit tricky if you don't want 50m of it! Hopefully it's the kind of thing he'll have in his van?

 

[drew35]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

So if your spark is away ? why not use another I do work for a letting agent but they have another guy they can use forgive me for questioning you but we get a lot of people coming on saying they have either been let down or their spark is off sick yet they ask questions that their own spark could answer with a phone call.



So as they say on tv Im out as I dont like sound of this it looks to me that you are a builder or joiner firing in kitchens and every so often when you hit a snag you pop in here glad to be corrected here

Exactly what I thought!

Now why would an electrician run 10mm for an oven and fit a 35mm installation box?? Never happen, but a home owner with no idea about diversity or how they're never going to get 10mm cable in a 35mm box might.

So I'm also out...

 

[telectrix]

Re: Sorry - another induction hob / oven wiring question (appliance spec's included).

rip that box out and fit a dual 47mm back box. then you can fit 2 outlets. ( or your sparks can )