Splicing ring main to add some stuff

[MFS Electrical]

Original bathroom design did not have heated floor and heating element, got added at last minute. So up until then it was redirecting a shaver plug and adding a mirror light to the lighting circuit, which I decided to do to keep spiralling costs down.

The best piece of advice would be to find yourself a sparky pronto mate because as I say to inspect and test properly and be able to issue an Electrical Installation Certificate the spark either needs to see all the routes etc or actually put it in themselves.....

 

[Andy78]

The best piece of advice would be to find yourself a sparky pronto mate because as I say to inspect and test properly and be able to issue an Electrical Installation Certificate the spark either needs to see all the routes etc or actually put it in themselves.....

Exactly. When a customer rings me, and they do, asking for me to test and certificate one of their installs, they get nothing more than advice for the future.
If I was called before the install so I could design and supervise the install then that's at least in the right direction.

In my opinion any spark that would sign a cert for a job they had no involvement in would not be worth having anyway.

 

[SparkyChick]

This is perhaps one of the most reasoned DIY questions we've had for quite some time and still it has degenerated into another 'are you competent' thread.

The advice the OP needed was, for the most part delivered in a polite and courteous manner in the first few posts. Everything else (except the last few) is superfluous and serves no purpose, other than to possibly offend or upset someone who has come here for advice.

Please have a quick read of these two threads to refresh your memory as to what constitutes the staff viewpoint on how we expect people to behave and treat visitors on the forums:-

Reminder - Forum Rules and 'Be Nice' Policy - https://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/threads/reminder-forum-rules-and-be-nice-policy.169006/
Reminder - Inappropriate content and abusive behaviour - https://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/threads/reminder-inappropriate-content-and-abusive-behaviour.169218/

Also, these forums are NOT just for electricians to help other electricians. If they were, we wouldn't have the DIY area.

Thank you to those members who provided the constructive advice to the OP, I'm sure it is appreciated.

 

[Grezza]

I agree with the above, Although in this case I would agree with the general consensus.

It’s easy to see if electrical work works but much harder to see if it works safe.

There are many ways to prove you are a competent person and thus allowed to work with electrics but remember, if you kill yourself or others you will have to prove in a court of law your competence. A simple link to this forum probably won’t exempt you.

But on another note, I see nothing wrong with your design.

 

[GeorgeCooke]

Competent, yes
Safe, yes
Part P qualified, no

I do not have any continuity test kit unfortunately.

No such thing as "part P qualified" so you are correct. Part P is a building reg not a qualification.

 

[Spoon]

No such thing as "part P qualified" so you are correct. Part P is a building reg not a qualification.

Very true but we all know what people who state "part P qualified" are getting at. They mean the exam.
You can't take the micky out of the exam as you would also be taking the micky out of the BS7671 exam... same thing to me mate.

 

[johnduffell]

to the OP to comply with BS7671 you would need to do at least r1+r2/polarity/continuity, Ze test, maybe even volt drop calculation etc the point is the most important part is the testing after the design. There's a lot to it and competence pretty much requires it.

I have been previously shot down for saying that if you have a multimeter and know what to do, you can do a lot better testing than with nothing at all, polarity and continuity being the main ones. Also there's the physical pull out test you only need pointy pliers for that. It's true that it's not ideal and won't prove compliance with BS7671 or part p, but it's better than nothing regardless of how many disagrees I get.