UK Spur off a 4mm twin and earth, 32amp radial

[JLH520]

I have a dedicated radial from the consumer unit to my conservatory. This was installed using 4mm twin and earth as it gives the option to use multiple electric heaters on a 32amp breaker if needed. The circuit consists 4 double sockets plus one single socket on the end, in a weatherproofed box on the wall outside. As it happens, I rarely need to use electric heaters in there, as there are plumbed radiators too, so the radial is easily over specced and currently has only a 16amp breaker.

Now I need to add two extra double sockets outside to power two 2500 watt infra red heaters under a gazebo (each has a 13 amp 3 pin UK plug fitted, they won’t be hardwired). I am hoping to be able to add these sockets by running a spur from the conservatory radial circuit as it could comfortably cope with the draw from the heaters. My intention was to continue a 4mm twin and earth spur to these additional two sockets outside so that the whole radial is safely capable of handling 32 amps.

The problem is that a fused connection unit which handles a fuse above 13 amp doesn’t seem to exist, so I’m wondering how best to safely connect this spur to my radial circuit and isolate the outside circuits if need be?

Any helpful suggestions on how to implement this would be greatly appreciated

 

[DPG]

75?

You’ll be looking forward to a life of diddy little diy jobs, watching YouTube videos of tractors, engines and other machinery just moving…. Not actually doing anything and drinking copious amounts of coffee…

That’s what my 75 year old dad does

Sounds OK to me that! Swap coffee for beer though.

 

[buzzlightyear]

am only taking on small, non-mauling jobs now. legs are knackered and lungs are dicey. be 75 in a week.

There's more life in you, you old dog, you could take a job in stacking sleeves at big orange House and showing us young ones it can be done.

 

[brianmoooore]

even though, eack kWH will dry to a set level. 5kW will just be quicker then a 3 kW unit. energy in = energy out, and all that.

MUCH quicker than a UK domestic drier. It uses moisture sensors and 'fuzzy logic' to keep the electricity consumption to a minimum for a non heat pump drier, but I still see £ signs in front of my eyes when I watch that meter light flashing.

 

[Dave OCD]

That little red light can be a handy tool when you repair a heater or immersion heater for example. Just compare the flash rate between off and on and you know straight away that it's drawing current and ok - or not. ?

 

[EddieB]

I had to laugh at this thread, and most threads because by the time they are towards the end they bear no resemblance to the initial subject

 

[Markyd]

Thank you all for (A) putting me straight on a couple of points, and (B) providing the answers I was looking for.

To clarify a couple of points - yes the circuit is, and will continue to be RCD protected and I will extend onto the end of the radial, rather than cutting in between the existing sockets (not sure if that would change anything.)

I will also change the circuit MCB to a 32 amp to cope with the heaters.

Thanks again.

And then you will use a multifunction tester and do a r1 r2 test, a Zs test, a RCD trip time test and complete a Minor works cert,,,,Wont you

 

[Dave OCD]

And the band played believe it if you like as my gran used to say.

 

[Dave OCD]

And then you will use a multifunction tester and do a r1 r2 test, a Zs test, a RCD trip time test and complete a Minor works cert,,,,Wont you

Not forgetting insulation resistance as well.

 

[superspark]

IT is a

There is a recommendation that loads of 2Kw and above need to be on their own dedicated circuit, not fed via a 13 A spur

Normally hard wired, yes, but it says heater has a 13 amp plug top, Which is man fact fitted, i dont agree that a 2.5 or 3kw heater especially outside should be on a plug top, as we all know , seperate supply For these they could be on for hours.