Stud Walls...fast fix or noggin and metal box? | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Stud Walls...fast fix or noggin and metal box? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Which do you prefer on new walls? Pros and cons?
I've always put a noggin in but am finding more and more that plasterers seem to measure the height of the socket then decide to cut the board half an inch higher.

I don't like how plaster can chip too easy with a pad saw or that the box is visible with fast fix. But then it takes longer to set up a metal one, but then it's a faster 2nd fix.....but then a fast fix is a quicker 1st fix!!!

Just wondering on general consesus.Thoughts?

This has probably been done to death hasn't it?
 
Carry on the good work

Try fixing the metal boxes at plasterboard depth,it will make life easier for you and the plasterer
Tuck the cables into the box and get the boarder/plasterer to make a hole in the box centre(they should be capable of that accuracy) then cut out neatly with your pad saw prior to it being skimmed

No butchery cutting the plasterboard,
No patching
Easier for boarding
No ruining the plaster finish
100 times better job than the "convenience only" dry lining boxes,they are fine for switches but when used for sockets they rely on small bits of plastic to prevent them being ripped off the wall,not nice
I tend to go with metal box and noggin where possible, but use dry liners if convenience is required.
I do a lot of boarding out myself, so I mount the box to the level of the finished plasterboard surface, with the cables tucked inside. When I come to cut out for the back box I just hold the plasterboard in position placed against the box and gently tap the board so that the box lightly imprints on the back of the board. I then just cut out the imprint and the board fits perfectly around the back box, job done.
 
I tend to go with metal box and noggin where possible, but use dry liners if convenience is required.
I do a lot of boarding out myself, so I mount the box to the level of the finished plasterboard surface, with the cables tucked inside. When I come to cut out for the back box I just hold the plasterboard in position placed against the box and gently tap the board so that the box lightly imprints on the back of the board. I then just cut out the imprint and the board fits perfectly around the back box, job done.
Some of the dry liners I've seen, would just screw the plasterboard to the stud, leaving a nice little bulge, so you new where the back box is :)
 
Noggin & metal box is always prefered, im happier having cables enclosed in an earthed metal enclousures when buried in a wall through a fire barrier, wonder if metal dry lining boxes may become neccesary instead of the cheap plastic things, happend to cu's so why not get rid of these nasty plastic things too for something sturdy & earthed.
 
I am happy to use drylining boxes. However I was called to a conference room to renew one as obviously someone had tripped on a plugged in something, and the box came right out of the wall. Cables exposed and so on. Also as far as I understand these boxes are supposed to be lined now with fireprooof material, bought in packs. Anyone know about that ?
I've used the fire-proof man play dough known as a putty pad. It basically sticks on the inside of the box. It's supposed to help with sound proofing too. It's more useful as the weapon of choice when the apprentice doesn't listen and he's 10 foot away. Roll it into a neat ball and aim for a head shot.
 

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