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DIYer question.

I have a 32 amp supply going from consumer unit in garage to kitchen. It supplies an induction hob only. The cable is easily accessible.

I need an additional socket in the garage - 13 amp max. The easiest and hopefully cheapest way to do this is to take a spur off the 32 amp cable.

How should I do this? I will need a junction box and 2.5 mm cable for the 13 amp socket, but how do I do this safely? So for example how can I ensure the 2.5 mm cable is isolated from power going to hob when its on? Recommendations on products would be good also.

Apologies if a daft question.

Thanks in advance.
 
Alas, Lucian is missed so often :(


That is my feeling, that if you had just had an electric cooker fitted then you would want an electric kettle but might not have many (if any?) spare 13/15A sockets already.

The 13A plug with internal fuse of course means it is not important if the supply is 16A or 45A, etc. Having a 15A unfused outlet off 30A/45A seems a risk though? Did the oldest has their own rewirable fuse just for the outlet?

For a new kitchen with lots of sockets there is no need for the cooker+outlet fixture, but for many existing kitchens that extra socket is handy!
The cooker socket is also handy for when a fault trips the socket circuit, you can still make a cup of tea whilst pondering.
 
I’ll confess that I’ve always been lazy and taken testing figures via the socket. My defence is that if 1.5m of 6mm cable down to the cooker makes that much difference then things are already on very shaky ground.
 
I’ll confess that I’ve always been lazy and taken testing figures via the socket. My defence is that if 1.5m of 6mm cable down to the cooker makes that much difference then things are already on very shaky ground.
Ah! but thats where I have found cross polarity when doing an EICR (twice in about 20 years and thousands of tests......)
 

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