OP
Oldshape
I know. I couldn't reply to each item so I put answers within the text@Oldshape I see no comments?!
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Discuss The age old Grid switch topic in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net
I know. I couldn't reply to each item so I put answers within the text@Oldshape I see no comments?!
You have some very odd ideas which you are stating as though they were fact. My thoughts:
A plug and socket is fine as a means of isolation.
Not my usual sparky, but I had another one around to my present house to estimate a smoke alarm system. Over a brew he told me all these additional facts. The plug and socket as an isolation means must be (Obviously) above worktop and clearly labeled. But function switches / sockets aren't labelled.
Nothing wrong with an appliance socket in a cupboard.
If it is the isolation switch, it is wrong. Can't be shifting the cornflakes to find it.
Really?
Yep. The isolation switches have to be clearly visible and accessible.
The boiler and its controls should normally be on the same supply.
I thought so.
Put the fan on the socket circuit via a socket or fused connection unit.
Because? Does it not make sense to have the three cooking items on their own circuit?
Why on earth would you run a ring circuit to a single accessory?
Because it will be expanded to serve outside sheds etc.
Don't complicate things by making rings where they're not required and not expected.
Is it never expected to have lighting as a ring? Certainly not needed for safety anymore, as all the bulbs are 20w maximum.
Eh? Why?
So that visitors (Including fireman, mo-in-law) to the house can clearly isolate.
I understand, I've balls'd up posting before now. Perhaps if you re-tried it might make more sense. Just saying.HandySparks asked a heap of questions, which I couldn't answer individually. So I copy/pasted the lot, with my answers. See his Q further up the thread.
AFAIK there is no must about it.Built in appliances MUST have an isolation switch, and apparently even if you have the function switch and plug above worktop
I didn't say there was a reg. on those items. I said in my case, all 4 appliances will be next to each other under a worktop held by batons. So all my plugs will be inaccessible without dragging the unit out. So I might as well put isol. switches above the tops. Or have the whole sockets above the top with a hole in it to feed flex through. Which of course will look crap.Hi Oldshape,
Just on the free standing appliances that come with plugs, i.e. your washer, dryer and fridge planned for the Utility Room. I know of no regulation that says these can't be put where you want and be plugged into outlets. There is no regulation that I know of requiring additional isolation beyond that provided by the outlet and then the mcb/RCBO in the CU.
I'd be very happy to understand if that was not correct - so please hit the keys guys.
See post above. Or did you mean the apparently bit? Based on the fact that a function switch isn't labelled but an isol. can be purchased with a proper ID on it.It is this sort of assertion that I do not understand
AFAIK there is no must about it.
Dear @Oldshape please can you quote the regulation that says this must be provided.
I'm happy to bow down and grovel if you can find one. Best regards.
No. He told you his opinions and his interpretation of the regs.Not my usual sparky, but I had another one around to my present house to estimate a smoke alarm system. Over a brew he told me all these additional facts.
So just run a radial circuit in bigger cable.Why on earth would you run a ring circuit to a single accessory?
Because it will be expanded to serve outside sheds etc.
If firemen want the power off, they're not going to be faffing about trying to decide which lighting circuit to isolate. They'll just want to see a big red switch labelled 'MAIN SWITCH', as required by the regs.Eh? Why?
So that visitors (Including fireman, mo-in-law) to the house can clearly isolate.
No. He told you his opinions and his interpretation of the regs.
This is domestic accommodation we're talking about with a main switch within a short walk. Not an industrial plant with numerous distribution boards spread over acres of site.
If the function of a switch or isolator is obvious from its location, there's no need to label.
So just run a radial circuit in bigger cable.
If firemen want the power off, they're not going to be faffing about trying to decide which lighting circuit to isolate. They'll just want to see a big red switch labelled 'MAIN SWITCH', as required by the regs.
Reply to The age old Grid switch topic in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net