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A fused spur is a lower-rated branch circuit made from a higher-rated circuit, via a local fuse to protect the branch. This is done using a standard device called a fused connection unit, example here: BG fused connection unit . It often includes a double-pole switch to provide isolation if needed, and/or a power indicator, but it must contain a BS1362 cartridge fuse, the same type as used in our fused plugs. Most common fuses are 3 & 13A (also available 1, 2, 5, 7 & 10A).

For example, If you want a small supply for an outside light and there is a 32A circuit for socket outlets nearby, then you can install a fused connection unit with a 3A fuse to make a branch circuit for the light, instead of running a new lighting circuit all the way back to the panel. A fused connection unit can also used to connect a permanently installed appliance such as duct fan, instead of a plug and socket outlet. to stop people unplugging it to use the outlet. Here it's not technically a 'spur' but we have a habit of calling the fused connection unit itself a spur, or spur box.

Fused connection units were invented alongside fused plugs and the scheme of using socket outlet circuits of much higher rating than the plugs themselves. 32A circuits are popular, offering 7.4 kilowatts per circuit (compared to the 2.4kW of a 20A 120V outlet circuit), so a large number of typical appliances can be powered from one circuit. This is only possible due to the presence of fuses.
 
Do y’all have to draw permits and when you are finished get it inspected
This question probably hasn’t been answered yet as it’s a contentious and complicated subject. In short experienced and competent sparks are expected to test and certify their own installations. Certain domestic work has to be notified to to the local authority.
How much do you have to pay to draw a permit? Presumably that covers the cost of a third party inspection?
 
This question probably hasn’t been answered yet as it’s a contentious and complicated subject. In short experienced and competent sparks are expected to test and certify their own installations. Certain domestic work has to be notified to to the local authority.
How much do you have to pay to draw a permit? Presumably that covers the cost of a third party inspection?
Depending on what you are getting a permit for it cost around $100.00. I worked out of town in another state and they charged by the amp which at that time we was working on a 4000 amp switch gear which I had to pay and it’s was around $ 650.00 US dollars and they would not take nothing but cash. Every state . County, and inspectors are different and have their rules
 
Depending on what you are getting a permit for it cost around $100.00. I worked out of town in another state and they charged by the amp which at that time we was working on a 4000 amp switch gear which I had to pay and it’s was around $ 650.00 US dollars and they would not take nothing but cash. Every state . County, and inspectors are different and have their rules

Yes fatalan I do add that price to the customer
 
Do y’all not have panels with all your overcurrent and short circuit and run your wires the the devices

Yes, but as I explained in post #16, the FCU is a handy way of locally creating a small circuit from a large one, bearing in mind that our outlet circuits are often protected at 32A in the DB (panel).
 
Do y’all not have panels with all your overcurrent and short circuit and run your wires the the devices
we do. we call them Distribution Boards. domestics are commonly referred to as Consumer Units.
 
We use breakers as our overcurrent protection not fuses

We use whatever is best suited to the application.
Generally MCB's (miniature circuit breakers) for small final circuits and MCCBs (moulded case circuit breakers) or fuses for distribution circuits or large final circuits.
Installing two mcbs in series can have discrimination issues, so generally we don't use mcbs for distribution circuits.

The choice of protective device, whether its fuse or circuit breaker will depend on things such as the type of load, the prospective fault current, discrimination.
 
Now, now Andy78, that's a tad pedantic of you! LOL!
Plus, you ended your sentence with an unnecessary preposition. If we are trying to assist our American friend with the correct terminology for our superior electrical items, we should be careful not to let him think our grammar is inferior...
 

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