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sythai

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Think my plumber mate must be getting fed up with me borrowing his core drill and 110mm TCT cutter.

So time has come to buy myself one.

Any recommendations on both items please - will get used no more than about 12 times/year, so don't really want to spend megga bucks on the drill if poss.

I've got all Makita gear, but have been told by 2 different tool shops that this is the one that will suit me ??

Home - Products - Powertools - Diamond - Diamond Drilling - Dry Diamond Drill - DEWALT

Cheers Sy
 
Buy the best quality cores and core drill you can afford. I can recommend "Norton" as I used these a lot in the past. Last year I was unable to obtain "Norton" from my supplier, in the sizes I required for a particular job. I decided to give "Marcrist" a try, what a revelation. Absolutely superb, speedy and efficient cutting, used either wet or dry. I've cut nearly a hundred holes with a "Marcrist" 117 x 165 CCU850X and still have well defined sharp diamond lands.
Core drills generally come in two forms: - 1) The conventional chuck type takes a hex arbor. 2) The threaded tool holder type takes a screw fit arbor. The former, allow you the flexibility of a standard drill. The later, higher torque of a direct drive at the expense of more laboured tool changing.
Of the chuck type the Makita 8406 is fine example, offerings from Dewalt and Bosch are better, but my personal favorite is the Milwaukee DD2-160XE.
Direct drive types are the professional choice however. The Marcrist DDM2 and DDM3 allow wet and dry cutting at fixed speeds. I have never felt the need for variable speeds when using one of these machines. I find them remarkably efficient when paired with the same make of core cutter. The Hilti DD120 and 130 are the firm favorites with the majority of my work mates, due to their shorter body length.
What ever you choose to buy, don’t be tempted to use an SDS drill to drive a large core cutter. The SDS tool holder is very inefficient when used in the hammer stop mode, a large core drill will quickly stress and wear the tool holder and ultimately destroy a SDS if it does not have thermal protection.
If you suspect your drill of getting excessively hot, stop drilling, switch to the max speed range and run it flat out for least 5 minutes in free air to allow the motor fan to cool the windings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Markie, you sure are a wealth of in depth, relevant knowledge.

Id heard that said about cooling a drill before and never knew whether to believe it or not.
 
Buy the best quality cores and core drill you can afford. I can recommend "Norton" as I used these a lot in the past. Last year I was unable to obtain "Norton" from my supplier, in the sizes I required for a particular job. I decided to give "Marcrist" a try, what a revelation. Absolutely superb, speedy and efficient cutting, used either wet or dry. I've cut nearly a hundred holes with a "Marcrist" 117 x 165 CCU850X and still have well defined sharp diamond lands.
Core drills generally come in two forms: - 1) The conventional chuck type takes a hex arbor. 2) The threaded tool holder type takes a screw fit arbor. The former, allow you the flexibility of a standard drill. The later, higher torque of a direct drive at the expense of more laboured tool changing.
Of the chuck type the Makita 8406 is fine example, offerings from Dewalt and Bosch are better, but my personal favorite is the Milwaukee DD2-160XE.
Direct drive types are the professional choice however. The Marcrist DDM2 and DDM3 allow wet and dry cutting at fixed speeds. I have never felt the need for variable speeds when using one of these machines. I find them remarkably efficient when paired with the same make of core cutter. The Hilti DD120 and 130 are the firm favorites with the majority of my work mates, due to their shorter body length.
What ever you choose to buy, don’t be tempted to use an SDS drill to drive a large core cutter. The SDS tool holder is very inefficient when used in the hammer stop mode, a large core drill will quickly stress and wear the tool holder and ultimately destroy a SDS if it does not have thermal protection.
If you suspect your drill of getting excessively hot, stop drilling, switch to the max speed range and run it flat out for least 5 minutes in free air to allow the motor fan to cool the windings.

Blimey Mark thats some reply - greatly appreciated, think I'll be spending the extra dosh then and go for a Marcrist. Dear I ask how much ? (ÂŁ100 - ÂŁ150 at a guess without googling)

Cheers Again,

Sy
 
As an indication of value for money, all the hire shops I use have the Makita 8406 drills. You can get them for ÂŁ200 - ÂŁ250 new by having a look on the 'net and eBay.
 
Would be nice to stick with Makita.... reckon it's the chap in the tool shop bluffing me (he's know for that!) about the Dewalt one, he must be getting at a special rate or something similar.
 
As an indication of value for money, all the hire shops I use have the Makita 8406 drills. You can get them for ÂŁ200 - ÂŁ250 new by having a look on the 'net and eBay.

It is a good point you make I buy a lot of power tools on recommendation from a couple of lads I have known for years in the local hire shop. One of lads does the repairs and knows what is good and bad and will admit even makita get it wrong occasionally with some of the tools they have produced

Generally if it's good enough for a hire fleet where the tools are abused then it'll do more than I need
 
That's pretty much my thinking too UNG. If it's works OK for the hire shops with the use and abuse they get, it should work well for me too. I look at how often I'll use something, work out the hire cost for the year, then see if it's cheaper to own one.
 
Do not touch the Dewalt it will have your arm off we had them at BG and they were lethal if you where up a ladder,clutch not quick enough,no one liked them,I use makita no probs but my mate who cores for a living all day every day uses marcrist,so both are good plus marcrist has cooling capability if needed.
 

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