Trade Skils 4 U

[Redvanman]

This is the quality of the workmanship that these courses say that are good enough to rewireable a house with.
Not sure how slashing accessories onto a board gives you the experience to run cables in the fabrication of a house
I would like some one whose done this type of course to give they experience of their first job they completed

 

[R G]

You can't beat a good squelch fixing , I often do it and its surprising how strong it is and also you get the box in the exact position as well , I have done rewire after rewire for the best part of 30 years and these things along with knowledge of parts of the building regs all go to prove that this is not a job for any short course wonder guy..

 

[shanky887614]

You can't beat a good squelch fixing , I often do it and its surprising how strong it is and also you get the box in the exact position as well , I have done rewire after rewire for the best part of 30 years and these things along with knowledge of parts of the building regs all go to prove that this is not a job for any short course wonder guy..

gripfill works well and is cheap to boot

 

[R G]

gripfill works well and is cheap to boot

Never tried that, good point , might give it a go when i have some ,

cheers Ray

 

[Dcf]

if you try an sds like that you will probably cause more damage.

use a wood chisel and scrape it along wall when its close and its that easy, if the fixings bad you will need to use bonding

eh??
wood chisels on walls? get out of town.
having the pleasure of cutting boxes and raggles into 2" block this very day ill tell you how its done.
cut out boxes and drops with chaser(in my case a makita sg 1250 with bosch extractor.
knock out boxes by hand with a scutch chisel.
prize out drops with a bolster
Any that were a bit hard , finish with a hilti 76 and a 75mm wide chisel.
job done.
a bit of oval conduit in the drop rather than my preferred option of 20mm pvc conduit due to the reduced depth.
no plastering straight onto the wall in my territory
job done.
I've lost count the amount of apprentices who could cut a box hole 300mm x 450mm and be 12mm deep which is about about as much use as ---- to a fish eh?
like everything else its practise

 

[R G]

I also use a metabo chaser with the henry attached then if its clinker, use a hand skutch chisel, then squelch the box and tube in the wall

 

[VoltzElectrical]

Dry wall adhesive is very good and goes off quickly too. I like to 'gob' boxes in when the wall are made of stone/ cheap bricks, often with crumbly black mortar that often makes getting a secure fixing through the hole in the back box challenging to say the least.

TBH, if i'm mixing up for that, I'll usually fill the chase in too at the same time. It saves using fixings.

What I normally do is chase for the cable and back box, keep the cable free from kinks and hold it back in the chase with a gob every foot, then fill in the gaps. If you keep the mix on the thick side, it holds everything beautifully.

 

[TJ Anderson]

gripfill works well and is cheap to boot

Dry wall adhesive with a bit of cement mixed to set it off quick is the ultimate.

 

[R G]

I have found the wickes one coat plaster quite good for everything really , I often have some old stuff lying around that goes off real quick , and then newer stuff for finishing off ,,,

Its also easy to sand afterwards if you need to..

 

[shanky887614]

eh??
wood chisels on walls? get out of town.
having the pleasure of cutting boxes and raggles into 2" block this very day ill tell you how its done.
cut out boxes and drops with chaser(in my case a makita sg 1250 with bosch extractor.
knock out boxes by hand with a scutch chisel.
prize out drops with a bolster
Any that were a bit hard , finish with a hilti 76 and a 75mm wide chisel.
job done.
a bit of oval conduit in the drop rather than my preferred option of 20mm pvc conduit due to the reduced depth.
no plastering straight onto the wall in my territory
job done.
I've lost count the amount of apprentices who could cut a box hole 300mm x 450mm and be 12mm deep which is about about as much use as ---- to a fish eh?
like everything else its practise

flash btd. use a grinder down the wall (sds if occupied), knock out with sds and using cold chisel in sds cut box out.

cinderblocks are so soft you can cut them with a wood chisel, for everything else ill use a bolster/cold chisel.

 

[TJ Anderson]

I have found the wickes one coat plaster quite good for everything really , I often have some old stuff lying around that goes off real quick , and then newer stuff for finishing off ,,,

Its also easy to sand afterwards if you need to..

I know exactly what you mean . Sometimes you want an old bag of it as it can work to your advantage.

 

[Dcf]

its all about knowing your structures and that comes with experience no other way.
the 2" blocks today were pretty soft but the joints were rock hard.
cutting with a chaser there is less chance of the wall falling to bits if you just go at it with an sds
and no one wants to breath in your fine black dust either when they are in the same building as you.
take it from me who spent 6 months as an apprentice raggling a school block and used to clear the entire floor of men with my "dustless" makita cutter.
and before my old gaffer bought that beauty it was all by hand.

 

[R G]

Yep ,, all by hand when i started , right up to the early 90s then got a roto stop drill , my hands and knuckles all creak and swollen , the chisels and bolsters i went through, that was on fletons as well , and cement rendered walls , council rewires , whole estates with really solid walls ....hmm good old days /not..

 

[shanky887614]

its all about knowing your structures and that comes with experience no other way.
the 2" blocks today were pretty soft but the joints were rock hard.
cutting with a chaser there is less chance of the wall falling to bits if you just go at it with an sds
and no one wants to breath in your fine black dust either when they are in the same building as you.
take it from me who spent 6 months as an apprentice raggling a school block and used to clear the entire floor of men with my "dustless" makita cutter.
and before my old gaffer bought that beauty it was all by hand.

thats why i use a grinder, it gets people out from under your feet cause no one ever has dustmasks etc lol

as long as i can see 6-8" in front of my nose its crack on with the grinder

 

[davesparks]

flash btd. use a grinder down the wall (sds if occupied), knock out with sds and using cold chisel in sds cut box out.

cinderblocks are so soft you can cut them with a wood chisel, for everything else ill use a bolster/cold chisel.

Try as 1" scutch comb chisel instead of the wood chisel and cold chisel, much better on all types of block

 

[R G]

thats why i use a grinder, it gets people out from under your feet cause no one ever has dustmasks etc lol

as long as i can see 6-8" in front of my nose its crack on with the grinder

I bet the customer loves you , the house would look like the sahara desert in 5 mins ...lol...