tridonic switchdim ballast

[Kev2632]

i was just looking at a job today, where the push switch on the wall had the feed coming into "com" and a brown in " L1 " and blue " L2" when i took the light down it had a brown in "D1" and blue in "D2" is it possible to apply 240 volts to both those connections on the ballasts or is "D2" always neutral??

 

[ian.settle1]

Dimmable ballasts normally work on 0-10 volts

 

[Kev2632]

yea, but these tridonic ballasts have 240 volts sitting at them,and they are going a PIR also, how does the D1 AND D2 work on the ballasts??

 

[Kev2632]

how would you wire up this kind of lighting system where there is a push to make switch and also a pir to control the lights, as too include the dimmable connections D1&D2 ??

 

[ian.settle1]

Go to the Tridonic Atco website they have all the wiring diagrams for their ballasts

 

[sparc]

This was my first experience of fitting a Tridonic digital dimmable ballast. I thought: "how hard can it be ... ".

There are four ballasts per fitting, two lamps per ballast. A number of fittings on a single switch.

I laid the new ballast alongside failed one, and swapped the wires one for one to make sure I didn't get any mixed up. New ballast has identical labeling for wires as old one.

When I turned power back on I found the new ballast was dimming its lamps UP, while the rest of the fittings were dimming their lamps DOWN! :-( And vice versa.

I tried suppliers customer services and Tridonic website for installation information, but this appears limited for this model - a PCA Excel one4all.

However, under section titled 'switchDIM' I 've found mention on 'synchronisation' using different durations of switch push - this seems to refer to a toggle type switch, allowing switch to be 'pulsed' briefly or held down for several seconds to reset factory settings.

Has anyone any experience of this problem, and whether solving it is simply a matter of synchronisation using switch pushes please?

 

[Aindowsimon]

The fitting in opposite cycle to other light fitting fully dim the lights to one extremity so one should be say fully dimmed down and others fully light up . Now disconnect d1/d2 of the offending fitting and fully dim the rest of the lights to the same point as was the offender prior to being disconnected . Re connect and all should be in sync. ( had this before )

 

[sparc]

Many thanks! I should be able to get back into hall tomorrow to give that a go - will report back!

 

[weep]

any joy with this, using touch dim lighting controls as well.
iv wired these systems before and had them working fine, now im on a job where they want 2 way dimming (dimmed from a retractable push to make switch) and its doing my head in. im thinking its the ballasts themselves that are a bit of a nightmare with the control circuitry thats in them.
got 4 lights all operating and dimming correctly but have 2 that are just constantly on, however when wired using the conventional 2 way switching method all is fine.
can these ballasts be reset to factory defaults at all.

 

[mark ju]

Regarding the one that's out of sync with the others, had this before and found phoning the manufacturers tech line helped, can't remember exactly but it turned out to be as simple as turning the supply off and back on again rapidly. Or twice. Phone them, they deal with this all the time.

 

[weep]

Regarding the one that's out of sync with the others, had this before and found phoning the manufacturers tech line helped, can't remember exactly but it turned out to be as simple as turning the supply off and back on again rapidly. Or twice. Phone them, they deal with this all the time.

after researching, its a long 10 second push which should bring them all down to about 50% light level, as for switching, there just wired in parallel with no strappers as the ballast detects the duration of the switch press to carry out different functions.
v

 

[mark ju]

Few years back I was on a job and contractor I was working for supplied these ffittings, Having never come across them before (neither had he) because they were relatively new on the market, after hanging all the bases ready I connected just the first one cos I was too impatient to see how it worked. So it dimmed nicely, back up, back down. Impressed all the builders guys.....until I connected the others to find they were all out of sync with the first. Or perhaps the other way round. Didn't feel quite so clever then.

 

[luka2k]

Has anyone got any experience with wiring ballast with less terminals? The broken one had 8 terminals, new one has only 7. On wiring diagram on ballast I noticed that 2 wires connect together and join in same terminal, but when I had wired it, it just don't light up. I have circuitry on all wires, and fittings seem to work...any ideas?
Many thanks