Triton T80 Easi-Fit Shower Cutting out with sink tap on ;-(

[LastManOnline]

then advise here. have a pumped shower off C/H. hot is pumped, cold not. when shower tap is on cool, it's freezig. soon as turn tap to activate pump, it's scalding. no regulation.

Hi TEL. Think you are referring to a "power shower" there. I was referring to a pumped electric shower. So a direct feed from the water tank in the attic preventing any pressure variations affecting shower supply.
With the power shower you have installed, I, m less experienced but I would wonder whether having a hot and cold water supply at different pressures (one pumped, one not) might be worth looking at?

 

[LastManOnline]

Now he has pressure issues (but pressure is above the legal minimum)... that would be solved by re-installing the CWS tank into his daughters bedroom !

Building of houses/commercial premises is often outstripping infrastructure capacity causing water pressure issues. Plus unsatisfactory maintenance results in more clogging of the system. As a result we notice among landlords a growing trend to ditch the "Power shower" for the less attractive but also less problematic pumped electric shower

 

[Pretty Mouth]

then advise here. have a pumped shower off C/H. hot is pumped, cold not. when shower tap is on cool, it's freezig. soon as turn tap to activate pump, it's scalding. no regulation.

For pumped showers, both hot and cold feeds should be pumped (via the same pump), and the cold should come from the same large header tank that feeds the hot water cylinder. This way, both hot and cold will have exactly the same pressure at the shower

 

[brianmoooore]

For pumped showers, both hot and cold feeds should be pumped (via the same pump), and the cold should come from the same large header tank that feeds the hot water cylinder. This way, both hot and cold will have exactly the same pressure at the shower

And the outlet from the tank that feeds the hot water cylinder should be marginally higher up the tank than the one the feeds cold water to the pump.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

And the outlet from the tank that feeds the hot water cylinder should be marginally higher up the tank than the one the feeds cold water to the pump.

I didn't know that, why so?

 

[brianmoooore]

So that, in the event of the water supply filling the tank failing, the hot water will fail before the cold,, and the shower will go cold, rather than scalding hot, before stopping.

 

[telectrix]

For pumped showers, both hot and cold feeds should be pumped (via the same pump), and the cold should come from the same large header tank that feeds the hot water cylinder. This way, both hot and cold will have exactly the same pressure at the shower

that's probably the answer. need to get the wet=pants back from Benidorm.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

So that, in the event of the water supply filling the tank failing, the hot water will fail before the cold,, and the shower will go cold, rather than scalding hot, before stopping.

Ah, very clever! Good thing I don't install these things. Are you, you know, a bit of a closet plumber Brian?

 

[brianmoooore]

Started out as a sparky, then, about 15 years later, after a particularly bad experience with a plumber on site, I decided enough was enough and expanded the business into plumbing and heating as well.
I continued to do jobs which were purely electrical, did a few which were almost pure plumbing, and did many that were electrics and plumbing, but vowed never again to take a job doing electrics, where a plumber is involved as well.
I stuck too this policy for about 10 years, when two good long term customers of mine both started a large new build project at the same time. Couldn't possibly take all that on, so told both customers they'd have to find plumbers elsewhere.
This following month or two did nothing to improve my opinion of plumbers! One had installed heating pipes along each side of a single storey loft, right out against the ventilated eaves, and had installed the boiler as a potential bomb - isolator valves on the flow and return, with no vent or PRV. Fire up the boiler with both valves off and it goes bang.
Compared to the other property, though, this one was perfection. Other place had heating pipes, hot water pipes and cold water pipes all running together in ducts under the floor, with no insulation between them. There were about a dozen hand basins around the place, all with individual hot and cold water taps, but no consistency as to which tap was on the left and which on the right. The taps chosen only had a tiny identifying mark on them, so it was pot luck as to whether your chosen tap was hot or cold. To add to this, because the heating pipes were in contact with cold pipes, and the hot water in some cases had a long way to travel to the tap, some would flow hot at first, then change to cold, and others would be cold for a while and then hot. Went into the loft while the plumber was commissioning the heating, and saw the vent pipe for the heating header tank was flowing water at full bore. He hadn't a clue why, so I ended up drawing out a diagram for him to change the pipework to on a large iece of cardboard packaging from the kitchen units.
That was the last time I ever worked with a plumber.

 

[advicewelcom]

Adjusted the Isolator value on the cold into the Bathroom sink and it did the job. Turned it just enough so even max output on the tap did not cause the shower to go cold. Thanks for that. ;-)
Surprised the Triton shower low pressure light did not come on if there was an issue with the water inlet into the shower unit.

Thanks for previous advise. Just a quickie...

...after replacing the old 8.5kw, I wanted to store this old shower away, but there is a water rattling around in it. Just wondering if anyone knows how to get this water out as I am sure its not going to be good to leave it inside the shower for years in storage. Have left it for a while and its not dripping out easily - assume there is some complex heater/exchange within the shower.

.. anyone know a trick to remove water from an electric shower so it can be stored?

 

[brianmoooore]

It's just an empty tank, but the outlet comes from a pipe that goes to the top. It'll drain out if you can disconnect the solenoid valve on the inlet, or some have a safety valve for excess pressure at the bottom, that might be removeable.

 

[advicewelcom]

It's just an empty tank, but the outlet comes from a pipe that goes to the top. It'll drain out if you can disconnect the solenoid valve on the inlet, or some have a safety valve for excess pressure at the bottom, that might be removeable.

Thanks. Taken the old Triton 8.5Kw shower off and have it sitting around the garage trying to get the water of it. In the diagram attached from the manual, the inlet is (1) and the shower hose connection is (15) at the bottom.

Can get some water out with a big shake, but not much. If there is anything on the diagram I could tinker with willing to give it a go. Else I assume I can pack it away with the water in it, if its not going to corrode or mess with anything internally?

 

[brianmoooore]

What's 11 in the diagram? It looks like it might be the pressure safety valve I referred to, and looks like it can be dismantled.

 

[advicewelcom]

What's 11 in the diagram? It looks like it might be the pressure safety valve I referred to, and looks like it can be dismantled.

11 is stabilizing value

Could it be 15- Pressure Relief Device?

 

[brianmoooore]

PRV is on the outlet pipe, so removing that won't help.
Removing the stabilising valve (whatever that is) should drain the water out of the tank.