Trouble with heating system wiring.

[arigurrin]

Any help would be appreciated.

Recently had a new boiler with megaflow tank fitted & i've wired up the heating controls according to the s plan diagram inthe booklet for the tank, except for a room stat as i intend to use the thermostatic valves on the rads to control the heat. The problem i'm experiencing is that the valves won't open when I use the timer controls to start the heating/hot water. Obviously i'm doing something wrong & i'm at a loss to solve my problem. Can anyone point out what might be the problem? Thanks

 

[topquark]

That doesn't really make for a workable solution. Just using the TRVs on the rads will not enable the boiler to fire up when the CH is calling for heat. Unless you've jumpered the connections where the thermostat would normally go, in which case your boiler (and pump, if pumped) would be continually fired up!

Best advice would be to install a room stat and wire it as normal. You should always leave one radiator (usually the bathroom) without a TRV as well to ensure there is always a return path for the CH water back to the boiler (otherwise you'll be putting undue pressure on the pipes).

 

[Apollo]

That doesn't really make for a workable solution. Just using the TRVs on the rads will not enable the boiler to fire up when the CH is calling for heat. Unless you've jumpered the connections where the thermostat would normally go, in which case your boiler (and pump, if pumped) would be continually fired up!

Best advice would be to install a room stat and wire it as normal. You should always leave one radiator (usually the bathroom) without a TRV as well to ensure there is always a return path for the CH water back to the boiler (otherwise you'll be putting undue pressure on the pipes).

Agree with all above apart from the location of the TRVless radiator. This is usually the hallway.


The room where the room stat is placed should be where there are no TRV's otherwise if the setting on the stat is above the TRV it would also never stop being fired up, required temp would never be reached. Hope that helps.

 

[topquark]

Good point In that case no TRV on the hall or bathroom (I hate soggy towels) unless there's a separate towel rad of course.

 

[truckster]

Have you double checked your wiring? Have you got a voltage on the valves? Is there a voltage coming from the T/C? Have you got the cyl. stat turned up? Your post is a little vague.

 

[Dunc]

What programmer are you using? If it's something like a Honeywell ST699 have you put the links in on the programmer itself? Alternatively have you got the wires in the programmer in the correct terminals. Usually terminals 3 and 4 are the HW ON and CH ON respectively on newer programmers.

 

[arigurrin]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. On closer inspection there's a couple of links that i've missed out also - plus the room stat links everything together. I suppose you get these issues when you're cutting your teeth.

May well be back after the weekend for more advice.

 

[topquark]

There are some clear piccys of S and Y plan in the stickys for this forum to help you debug.

 

[grimysparks80]

It can be done withiout a room stat. You just need to connect heating on on the timer to brown on the heating valve. I would reccomend having a room stat though. Im pretty sure its part of the building regs.

 

[arigurrin]

Evening from the dunce,

http://www.griffinnet.co.uk/images/sunvic-tlx.jpg

Has anyone wired one of these - sunvic tlx rfp programmable remote - into a conventional s plan? The timer control was easy as the actual unit mirrored the diagram. This room stat doesn't. I'm thinking L&N into right & left bottom respectively. Switched live (black) from top right. Does the earth wired up to the reciever or would it go into a connector block? If in reciever, which port? Do I have a clue what i'm doing?

 

[grimysparks80]

I think you need a 5 core into this. Youre right with live + neutral but then you will need to remove the link. then connect from heating on at the timer (usually number 4) to live in at the top (middle). then sl on (top right) to brown on your heating valve. If there is no connection for earth then put it in a connector block. Hope this helps.

 

[robie]

Hi, Have you read the information that comes with the programmer? some types need wired links fitted to the beck plate. also, have you tested the wiring box to make sure there is power at each point,evenif its just to comfirm there is power going through the system. also, make sure you have a 3amp fuse fitted at the fused spur before anything is damaged. Also, you need an open part to the system like everyone else is talking about, so somewhere there needs to be a rad with no trv but thermostat to controll the heating system, you can get wire less types so it can be placed anywhere or hidden out of site, i think you can pick them up for about £70ish.

 

[arigurrin]

Hello from the dunce again.

Everything is now in place as per manufacturers s plan diagram (gledhill ) along with vaillant ecoTEC boiler BUT it still isn't working. Out of desperation I replaced the link in the boiler for its internal pump just to see if i got anything which i did, but it was an error code telling me it could be gas flow, ignition or electronics (nice of them to be specific).

Would appreciate any ideas. Thanks

 

[grimysparks80]

Disconnect everything and run the boiler and pump on a 3 pin plug. If you still get the error its a fault on the boiler and youll need to get the manufactorers out

 

[arigurrin]

All done. It helps when you open the gas valve at the boiler and make all the required links. Thanks to all those who replied. Hopefully one day I'll be able to impart some useful advice, doubtful it will be in the near future as i've clearly demonstrated my inexperience here!