thazelnut
DIY
Hi All,
I've installed a Lorex doorbell recently, but it is not turning on.
I did some tests using a multimeter and this is what I found:
To test the doorbell itself, I took it out, and powered it via a usb wall plug-in. When I did this, the doorbell turns on.
Just trying to figure out why my doorbell isn't working when it is hard-wired?
There are a few areas that I would like the community's help with.
1.) Could you diagnose if there is an issue with how the chimebox is wired?
My chimebox was initially set like this:
According to Lorex, their doorbell is not compatible with my chimebox. Therefore, I decided to bypass the chime completely. I didn't have a bypass cable specifically, but based on advice on another thread by the user Dartlec, I moved the Trans 3 wire and combined it to the Front 2 screw terminal. (Replace Friedland Type 4 chime transformer for Ring doorbell - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/replace-friedland-type-4-chime-transformer-for-ring-doorbell.195831/)
So now I set my chimebox like this: with the wires from T3 and F2 joined on one screw. As I mentioned earlier, all voltage reads 29v~ This time, when i check voltage between the O (top left) and Front 2 (bottom right) terminal, I still see 29v~
2.) Does the primary connection of the doorbell transformer make sense to you inside of the circuit breaker/panel? As you can see, the doorbell transformer is connected to another circuit (the washing machine). It's been like that since we got the house. I just want to check if the position of the black, white, and green wires make sense for the transformer.
3.) Any other ideas as to what is wrong with the doorbell wiring?
In terms of continuity, I did check the following areas with a volt meter on the continuity setting:
I've installed a Lorex doorbell recently, but it is not turning on.
I did some tests using a multimeter and this is what I found:
- Transformer voltage: 29v (transformer specs: Heath Zenith: 24v 20VA transformer)
- Chimebox (between Trans 3 and Front 2 screws): 29v
- Back of Doorbell Power Terminals: 29v
To test the doorbell itself, I took it out, and powered it via a usb wall plug-in. When I did this, the doorbell turns on.
Just trying to figure out why my doorbell isn't working when it is hard-wired?
There are a few areas that I would like the community's help with.
1.) Could you diagnose if there is an issue with how the chimebox is wired?
My chimebox was initially set like this:
According to Lorex, their doorbell is not compatible with my chimebox. Therefore, I decided to bypass the chime completely. I didn't have a bypass cable specifically, but based on advice on another thread by the user Dartlec, I moved the Trans 3 wire and combined it to the Front 2 screw terminal. (Replace Friedland Type 4 chime transformer for Ring doorbell - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/replace-friedland-type-4-chime-transformer-for-ring-doorbell.195831/)
So now I set my chimebox like this: with the wires from T3 and F2 joined on one screw. As I mentioned earlier, all voltage reads 29v~ This time, when i check voltage between the O (top left) and Front 2 (bottom right) terminal, I still see 29v~
2.) Does the primary connection of the doorbell transformer make sense to you inside of the circuit breaker/panel? As you can see, the doorbell transformer is connected to another circuit (the washing machine). It's been like that since we got the house. I just want to check if the position of the black, white, and green wires make sense for the transformer.
3.) Any other ideas as to what is wrong with the doorbell wiring?
In terms of continuity, I did check the following areas with a volt meter on the continuity setting:
- There is continuity between Trans 3 and Front 2 on the chimebox
- There is continuity between wires leading to the back of the doorbell terminals when I connect them together
- There is continuity between doorbell wires leading to the transformer's secondary when connected together