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littlespark

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Father in laws project. He’s bought a massive shed to store our caravans in and I’m bringing the electrics up to decent condition. (30 odd double sockets and a couple of 16A commandos on one rfc!)

so.... can anyone tell me what size this breaker is? I’m guessing 63A. It fed a 32A 3ph socket at the far end.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Two quick questions


second.
we’ve had a door widened to get the caravans in and out. It’s getting an electric roller door fitted, but I can’t get a hold of the installer to find out size of motor. Guessing it’s either 16 or 32A supply the need. (Single phase. Not getting used much) The opening is 12ft high and 18ft wise.
Anyone with experience of these doors? Or shall I just put in a 32A supply? Can always downgrade OCPD later.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Two quick questions


lastly.
cheap TP&N boards. Thinking I’ll need maybe 18 outgoing? Gives scope for a further 3ph supply if he wants to bring his woodturning equipment.
there will be maybe 4 lighting, 2 or 3 radials for general sockets, 2 radials for the commando plugs and a water heater, panel heater and the roller door of course.
 
Hard to tell the rating of the MG, you'd probably have to take the cover off to confirm.

Most single phase doors can be run from a fused spur or a 16 amp radial would normally suffice.

For boards I'd either be using Schneider or Wylex. Chint and Proteus do cheaper ones but quality is a bit iffy.
 
Well that's 3 questions, not 2 :)

Minipact was available in 16A - 63A so you will have to check the actual device - similar enclosure for many sizes.

As for motor size, I have come across loads of variation - it depends on material steel/aluminium and thickness - high security ones can be very heavy - these tend to be 3 phase though.

I would put the largest size feed in you can until you get the correct figures

As for cheap kit - Internet trawl or local distributors, sometimes you can get better kit cheaper than cheap kit
 
Father in laws project. He’s bought a massive shed to store our caravans in and I’m bringing the electrics up to decent condition. (30 odd double sockets and a couple of 16A commandos on one rfc!)

so.... can anyone tell me what size this breaker is? I’m guessing 63A. It fed a 32A 3ph socket at the far end.

View attachment 60773

second.
we’ve had a door widened to get the caravans in and out. It’s getting an electric roller door fitted, but I can’t get a hold of the installer to find out size of motor. Guessing it’s either 16 or 32A supply the need. (Single phase. Not getting used much) The opening is 12ft high and 18ft wise.
Anyone with experience of these doors? Or shall I just put in a 32A supply? Can always downgrade OCPD later.

View attachment 60774

lastly.
cheap TP&N boards. Thinking I’ll need maybe 18 outgoing? Gives scope for a further 3ph supply if he wants to bring his woodturning equipment.
there will be maybe 4 lighting, 2 or 3 radials for general sockets, 2 radials for the commando plugs and a water heater, panel heater and the roller door of course.
Regarding the MG Breaker I would consider changing it for new so the size would be upto your future requirements and governed by the incoming supply
 
Father in laws project. He’s bought a massive shed to store our caravans in and I’m bringing the electrics up to decent condition. (30 odd double sockets and a couple of 16A commandos on one rfc!)
30 sockets on a RFC is fine if only a few are ever used at one time.

16A commandos should not be on a RFC at all - no fuse!

cheap TP&N boards. Thinking I’ll need maybe 18 outgoing? Gives scope for a further 3ph supply if he wants to bring his woodturning equipment.
there will be maybe 4 lighting, 2 or 3 radials for general sockets, 2 radials for the commando plugs and a water heater, panel heater and the roller door of course.
Do you mean 18 * 3-phase circuits, or 6 * 3-phase = 18 single-phase equivalents?

Any reason for 4 lighting circuits? I would expect you only need inside & outside as I can't imagine you will be anywhere close to 6A of LED lighting. Unless trying to feed lights off each phase to reduce stroboscopic effects?

I would suggest you fit all sealed LED baton style lights though so they resist damp/dust/dead bugs, and a couple have emergency light functionality in them. Much safer for a workshop should the power fail for any reason (not just a local fault)!
 
Yes, @Julie. i can’t count.

Didn’t have my tools today, so didn’t take the cover off the MG.
there’s 25mm tails feeding this, and a 16mm twin and earth coming out to feed the existing single phase db.
Out the top is a 4 core 10mm I think.... doesn’t say on the sheath... that fed a 32A socket at the far end. I’ve previously rerouted this cable to where the kitchen is going to be, so all final circuits will come from a more central position.

I’m thinking a 16A would suffice for the roller door. It’s not a huge door really.

I’m keeping the existing light fittings as much as possible, it wouldn’t be cheap replacing them all. Mostly 6’ twin non corrosive fluorescents. Most of the sockets are weatherproof apart from some normal ones in a room that was used as an office. These were also on same ring.
I’m splitting up the lights and general sockets just for ease really. Some are coming out because they’re now at silly heights where platform gantrys have been removed.
There’s the big main building that the caravans are going in... then an extension on the side with another big area, a small room which may have been a corridor, we’re changing that to a toilet... then the room that was an office, now going to be a kitchen... and another biggish room.... which was once a cold room.
This building has been many things in the past, including a abertoi.... abbertii..... slaughterhouse.
 
Update.

The MG is 32A...... there was a sticker on the top that would have been visible if I’d given it a wipe.

I put in a Chintz board from screwfix, Just to see what they were like.

I put in a 16A supply with rotary isolator for the roller door. It was installed yesterday and it came with a 13A plug top fitted!
Also comes with remote control key fobs so can open it from outside. No need for extra wired key buttons or anything.
Hope that doesn’t interfere with the quinetic switches I’ll be fitting.
 

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