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Underfloor heating + rads has left me stumped!

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Here are some more images guys and gals.

Thanks for the last post Dunc.

I've done that and it's removed the shorting problem. I'm loosing the plot here though as this is now sending 240 down the grey and orange for the motorised valves. Aren't those cables supposed to be volt free?
 

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ref Blowing fuses on the combi boiler,not a good thing to happen

Has there, by any chance, been a mains voltage applied via the no volt contacts of the worcester that has caused the boilerl printed circuit to give up the ghost



What is the result if you apply power to this combi with no external control ?

Is the combi thermostat no volt link removed and the external circuit routed correctly ?

Sorry Des, I'd missed this.

I'm following on from the plumb bum who yes had connected directly in to the 240 in to the no voltage. I had assumed this was right until I checked the manual!

Removing the external controls means I can get hot water and the rads to work via the boiler controls so I'm assuming no damage has been done to the PCB.
 
Sounds like the boiler is OK, you can connect LS -> LR to control the boiler just on the front panel if you need to test anytime. It normally comes shipped with a hard link between them (which should be removed if controlled by external programmer).

What's the problem you're now having?
 
I'm getting no cables to go live on my zone and manifold connections in the wiring centre and 240 to my grey and orange going to the motorised valves!

I'm doing my head in here!
 
I'm getting no cables to go live on my zone and manifold connections in the wiring centre and 240 to my grey and orange going to the motorised valves!

I'm doing my head in here!
The motorised valves will have 230V (around 5W power dis), so that s/b OK.

Dumb question, but do you have the programmer(s) for CH set to 24H (or at least know for sure it's on) and the stat turned right up :)
 
Thanks Topquark. I don't think there is any need now. When all else fails check ALL THE FUSES. I found a 5mA fuse dead in the zone controller. I don't think it was working in the first place as it's lit up like a Christmas tree now and I've not altered any of the wiring apart from the boiler connections.

Now all I need to do now is see if this nice thick slate floor will warm up!
 
If you have a peek at page 21, it's close to the kind of config you'll need, only dif is it uses a zone for the HW cylinder, but principle will be the same.
 
Posted a link to a couple of posts above ^^^^, I think you were posting whilst I was, so you may have missed it.

Bingo! I've found it.

I'll make this my bed time reading! lol

I make my fair share of school boy errors with central heating wiring so in all fairness do need to read up a bit more on it.
 
No such thing as a school boy error when you're following on from someone else doing the initial install (you have to revalidate everything)! They are becoming more complex but fundamental principles for each zone controlled are pretty much the same.
 
Bingo! I've found it.

I'll make this my bed time reading! lol

I make my fair share of school boy errors with central heating wiring so in all fairness do need to read up a bit more on it.

Are you're feet getting any warmer now? Heating systems can be a sod to get your head round at times. I've got to the point where i can do a S-Plan with my eyes closed yet I always manage to miss a control wire somewhere whilst cabling for a Y-Plan. Practice makes perfect as they say.
 
3 channel programmer - HW, RADS, UFH. (although you could use a regular 2 channel combining the heating)

Why would you put a channel for HW.?? Y would you restrict when the home owner can or cannot have hot water as this is heated on demand.?
 

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