Wagos or crimp?

[1Justin]

Hi, I'm pretty new to this but a first job (and remember the nice man from NICEIC etc needs to be impressed), requires me to extend cables which will be left maintenance free beneath floorboards. - It not being possible to take them back to source.

I've read many of the posts on crimps vs Wagos and boxes. Ignoring the Wagos right now, I have just bought a ratchet tool and some (cable clamp type) choc boxes, idea being to crimp the cables with insulated butt-crimps, enclose all in box (screw cable clamp type). I also have got some self amalgamating tape on the way with the intention of perhaps (or not) going round the whole thing.

Is perhaps the S-A tape an overkill? Maybe I should embrace modernity and begin with Wagos as I mean to continue?

If I do heatshrink instead of the boxes (I have no coloured heatshrink right now -only black), I was supposing it best to offset the three joints, over shrink L&N individually then overshrink the lot (or use self amalgamating?).

What grade/dia of heatshrink is recommended for red (1.5mm), blue (2.5mm) or yellow(6mm) size crimps? And also since I need to crimp 4mm cable, is there a crimp size missing here?

 

[andekoch]

I would imagine that the hager maintenence fre JB;s are MF marked as they comply with both reg 561 and reg 563, whereas wagos on their own do not coply with reg 561
The hager maintenence frr JB;s use wago series 862 connectors in them and also have the cable clamps as required in 561

correct, WAGO does not currently carry the MF mark (on the box) but are likely to get this/ apply for it in the new year. To comply the box plus connectors as a package needs to comply and (as I understand it) wago make the connectors and the box is made by a separate manufacturer (but branded wago by agreement and as it is designed for the wago connector).

 

[1Justin]

.. But I take it that if it's crimped (and insulated) connection inside a box, then "MF" marking is not relevant and more or less any choc-box type enclosure meeting IP4X (with cable strain relief if appropriate) would classify?

 

[andekoch]

that is what I would assume also.

 

[i=p/u]

never done any crimping, so what is there to know about it for a beginner...... i do domestic mainly, the odd week comercial...

in my head you stick to cables in and squeeze.. but im sure is little more than that.... i know less joins the better....

 

[Specialist]

Basically that yes mate, make sure there's no wire showing outside the crimp. Use the right size crimp for the wire & use a good ratchet crimper.

 

[Rauer]

I do a fair amount of domestic and I use crimps all day!! Mainly on board changes when the cables don't reach ........... So 90% of them!

 

[PC Electrics]

Yes, I prefer crimps inside a CU. 'Looks' a lot more professional and they take up less room.

 

[robd]

On this one I need to get myself a new ratchet crimper for insulated crimps, any ideas on a good set to get?

 

[Specialist]

I bought a Draper 1 from 1 of the wholesalers about 4 years ago now & so far it's done well. City's & Edmundsons would be your best bet or Screwfix.

 

[JONOXNAM]

Just a word of caution why you should never pull energized cables around.

The crimp you can see is the line conductor - found this done by a kitchen fitter who had fitted the lady's kitchen 2 years ago to extend the ring... the opening must have originally contained a socket outlet that the guy removed and he shoved this bodge to the side, (the opening is not covered with a blanking plate) it is located under a worktop behind a dishwasher so is out of sight normally..

This was meant to be a simple job but I found almost everything the guy did of poor workmanship or none compliant, not a single grommet used, not a single back box fly lead, spurs off spurs, as you can imagine the lady never received a EIC... The not so funny thing is he told her he was giving up the install game to go and teach electrics at a college....

 

[Rauer]

That don't look to good but without sounding rough , didn't think grommits were required by regs, just good practice, and fly leads are not required if there is a fixed lug on the back box

 

[JONOXNAM]

That don't look to good but without sounding rough , didn't think grommits were required by regs, just good practice, and fly leads are not required if there is a fixed lug on the back box

Yep rough is the word, I did write poor workmanship or none compliant, none of the back boxes had lugs, I could have listed everything but it would have been a big post...

I just wanted to warn people there are non safe installations are definitely out there...

 

[Rauer]

Sorry didn't mean lug what I meant was as long as one of the wings isn't adjustable and is fixed ,as in wht you screw your 3.5mm pin into

 

[JONOXNAM]

Ah well you learn something new everyday... many thanks.

I can't remember if it was an assessor or lecturer that asked me a question many moons ago about fly leads, I said something like 'its good practice to fit them in all cases' and he replied he always wanted to see them, so I guess he is the belts and braces type, I think I'll always still fit them as personally I think it looks like a more thorough job and takes little time.

So I guess the size of the fly lead needs to be the same as the cpc size? never really thought as I always just strip a bit of the T&E I am using but could you use a bit of 1mm for the fly lead on a 1.5mm ring cpc?

 

[Rauer]

I always fit them myself mate but yeah same as the circuit cpc really