Wall chaser cutting width

[Baddegg]

Thanks Baddegg.
Do you find you have to chase out a little deeper if using oval conduit compared to capping?

Sometimes but usually the render is thick enough to accommodate, don’t what you use presently mate but if you don’t do many rewires then something like a metabo (make sure to use decent blades) chaser with a decent dust extractor will really speed up jobs for ya....as Phil says above 30 mm is perfect

 

[Phil Thompson]

Sometimes but usually the render is thick enough to accommodate, don’t what you use presently mate but if you don’t do many rewires then something like a metabo (make sure to use decent blades) chaser with a decent dust extractor will really speed up jobs for ya....as Phil says above 30 mm is perfect

That is what I have, metabo Mfe30 and the Dewalt 902 M class vacuum, its literally dust free, the new Metabo MFE40 looks a great job in that it eats out everything from inside the track, so no need to kango out or brush up the rubble from inside the track.

 

[Baddegg]

Dust free is the name of the game here......I’ve seen more than one woman (not one of my jobs I should add) reduced to tears over dust ?

 

[davesparks]

Could you expand a little on this please Dave? I have always used plastic capping in chases. What is the difference between a new wall and an existing wall? I realise one is already plastered, but the plasterer is still going to have to use his trowel to fill the chase the same in both cases.

Capping is used on new walls because it is shallow enough to fix directly to the wall without chasing it out.
Co suit is used in chases, partly because thats the way it has always been done, but also because it allows a much narrower chase which requires less time and work to chop out and is easier to make good.

I had a somewhat old fashioned education, I was taught when chasing in to existing walls, especially in occupied buildings and on rewires, to cut the box in neatly and not chop out the last couple of inches of the chase but to drill from the end of the chase down to the backbox so that the socket or switch can be fitted without having a gap around it. This way the decorator/homeowner/whoever can do the making good without removing the socket.

 

[Gavin John Hyde]

With some chasers you can replace the spacers with additional blades to cut a clean chase and avoid running the sds chisel down it. Useful trick rather than just 2 blades

 

[123]

With some chasers you can replace the spacers with additional blades to cut a clean chase and avoid running the sds chisel down it. Useful trick rather than just 2 blades

What chasers are they? I've not seen one that does that. I'd expect if you take spacers out and replace them with blades all you would end up with is a lot of fine line cuts that still needs chopped out, and a chaser machine with a much shorter life expectancy as it's getting over worked.

I've a Metabo MFE40 and it has a blade that can cut out the chase, but from what Metabo have said unless it's very soft material then the blade won't last long...at over £100 a blade I'd be looking more than a handful of chases out of it. The blades are a little offset so they cut into the chase rather than like 3 blades together. But looks like it only really suits thermalite or the likes.

 

[Gavin John Hyde]

I have done it with the titan chaser from screw fix. Added 2 blades in to it so 4 in all. Cut into thick plaster/render and soft bath stone behind no problem. Can't Recall what width I had it due to tinkering but was oval conduit going in for some light switch drops. and fit nice and snug afterwards

 

[123]

I have done it with the titan chaser from screw fix. Added 2 blades in to it so 4 in all. Cut into thick plaster/render and soft bath stone behind no problem. Can't Recall what width I had it due to tinkering but was oval conduit going in for some light switch drops. and fit nice and snug afterwards

That's not what the tool is designed for, although on soft stone or thermalite etc not likely to be a problem. If you do it a few times on breeze block, red brick or the harder materials the grinder won't last long. Calling it a useful trick is bit like saying use a battery drill to bang in a nail, or use an SDS drill to core out for a fan. It'll all work, but not for very long.

 

[Baddegg]

That's not what the tool is designed for, although on soft stone or thermalite etc not likely to be a problem. If you do it a few times on breeze block, red brick or the harder materials the grinder won't last long. Calling it a useful trick is bit like saying use a battery drill to bang in a nail, or use an SDS drill to core out for a fan. It'll all work, but not for very long.

Been drilling fan cores with my sds drill for years.....?

 

[robd]

I have done it with the titan chaser from screw fix. Added 2 blades in to it so 4 in all. Cut into thick plaster/render and soft bath stone behind no problem. Can't Recall what width I had it due to tinkering but was oval conduit going in for some light switch drops. and fit nice and snug afterwards

Must make more dust for the hoover to suck up as well
[automerge]1580384523[/automerge]
I've got a erbaeur one from screwfix, it's never let me down apart from if you have blunted one of the blades unknowingly it will jam as one blade wants to spin and the other doesn't but that's me not realising rather than the tool. Have also used my mates makita one which is better than mine but also quite a bit more money so depends how much you want to spend.

For me blades set for 25mm oval conduit to bang into the groove, works nicely.

 

[Timbo]

Been drilling fan cores with my sds drill for years.....?

Milwaukee M18 SDS does 117mm cores, gets warm but still going strong.

 

[Baddegg]

Milwaukee M18 SDS does 117mm cores, gets warm but still going strong.

I do at least one a week with my dewalt 240v and I use it for chases/boxes with a scrutch attachment still going strong....I’m on me second drill in 10 years and that’s only because some donut managed to weld an attachment into my last one!.....to be fair though the drill is still going just can’t take the sds bit out ?

 

[telectrix]

I do at least one a week with my dewalt 240v and I use it for chases/boxes with a scrutch attachment still going strong....I’m on me second drill in 10 years and that’s only because some donut managed to weld an attachment into my last one!.....to be fair though the drill is still going just can’t take the sds bit out ?

replace the sds chuck.

 

[Baddegg]

replace the sds chuck.

Yeah I could do......but I just change the core but on the end and use a new one for chasing out ??