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Carlos Arruda

[ElectriciansForums.net] Was this standard practise???


Was this standard practice back then? (1979).

A 30A rewirable fuse for two ring mains?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ckb0ikxntr5prkv/20150418_104206.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/ckb0ikxntr5prkv/20150418_104206.jpg?dl=0
 
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I must say I am slight worried about the garage as there's an ARC welding machine.

It seems it pulls 180A on start according to the owner. I am wondering if a 32A MCB type C will handle this. One of my tutors said I might have to bump it up to a type D even, but it might the case of trial and error here. Use the type C and see how it copes and then replace it if need be.

He says he's never had any issues as the installation is and I am thinking he's on a 2.5mm CSA at the momen on a rewirable 30A fuse serving two other circuits.
I am slightly worried about you doing the Job to be honest, a can of worms for a level 3 lad with no experience, I would suggest you get an electrician around to look at the job first, forget your tutor, he sounds incompetant, this is someones home fella, I am not being nasty, just realistic. Asking questions is fine of course, what worries me is your intent to steam in regarding this job.
 
before changing the CU it needs much more thorough testing to find out exactly what cables go where and if they are true RFCs or inadvertently connected. this will save you a lot of grief when you come to test and power up the new CU. without sounding patronising, i think you're a bit out of your depth on this one. many experienced sparks have been confused when diy dave has had a go.
 
Hi all.

Been round the house and done a bit more investigating.

It turns out the 1st 5A fuse is serving lights for small entrance porch and lights in the back small conservatory.

A very bad assumption from me, thinking that the 2nd 5A fuse serves all the ground and second floor.

As it turns out, it doesn't.

Thanks everybody.

Regards,
Albert
 
Hi all.

Been round the house and done a bit more investigating.

It turns out the 1st 5A fuse is serving lights for small entrance porch and lights in the back small conservatory.

A very bad assumption from me, thinking that the 2nd 5A fuse serves all the ground and second floor.

As it turns out, it doesn't.

Thanks everybody.

Regards,
Albert

Have you checked the bonding is adequate, etc as well ?
 
before changing the CU it needs much more thorough testing to find out exactly what cables go where and if they are true RFCs or inadvertently connected. this will save you a lot of grief when you come to test and power up the new CU. without sounding patronising, i think you're a bit out of your depth on this one. many experienced sparks have been confused when diy dave has had a go.

Not patronising at all mate.

I will be going round this weekend coming with my tutor's (fluke) multifunction tester.

He will show me how to use it as at college we only use/have megger.

Thank you for the input.

Regards,
Albert
 
Very strange, you have these 2 testers yet test continuity with your voltage indicators as explained in one of your previous posts.

These are kept in a separate tool case at home and only used in my electronics (laptop & computer repairs) really.

At college I was never allowed using my multimeter instead of my volt tester (fluke again).
 
Would my true RMS multimeter be any better at testing continuity?

Please note I am not talking about resistance. I know you can't have one without the other, but I was solely looking at continuity and not looking at any resistance values to start with. A learning curve.

Which perhaps, you are entirely right in your comment.

I suppose I could use it to test resistance.
 
Would my true RMS multimeter be any better at testing continuity?

Please note I am not talking about resistance. I know you can't have one without the other, but I was solely looking at continuity and not looking at any resistance values to start with. A learning curve.

Which perhaps, you are entirely right in your comment.

I suppose I could use it to test resistance.
Well your voltage indicators are for testing plug top fuses are broken or not lol, you cannot get a reading proving a cable is damaged for example from those, they are fine for testing voltage, but you need a insulation resistance tester or ohm meter for real continuity testing.

Ps didn't get whether you said your tutor told you or not cocker.
 

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