Washing Machine Won't Stop

[SimpleSimon]

Well lads I emptied the front filter yesterday but still nothing. It worked once when I went through a dry run. (ie no load or detergents.) but than put the clothes back in and it was just the same. Over and over. If I put it on a separate rinse and spin it will drain and also if I pump it out. So I'm really not too sure now Olof it's electrical or plumbing. :/

 

[SirKit Breaker]

Get her a peggy tub and mangle, no arty farty technology to go wrong, and it will keep you other half busy for hours. Problem solved.
Cheers.........Howard:wink5:

 

[SimpleSimon]

Im thinking the PCB is broken. :/ trouble is, with about £80 just for the part, and it may not be right. It's not much more to get a comet guy out for the trouble. Grrrr I hate it when I can't solve things. :banghead:

 

[topquark]

If it's not working under load, check out the brushes in the motor (assuming it's a brushed motor).

 

[SimpleSimon]

If it's not working under load, check out the brushes in the motor (assuming it's a brushed motor).

Will that make a difference top quark?

 

[topquark]

Will that make a difference top quark?

Yep, if they're worn down so only just touching it might turn with no load, but not when loaded. Would be a bit of a coincidence if it had just failed though but worth checking.

 

[KINKY]

He mentioned the door was stuck too.

I would check as topquark said, if not sounds like PCB due it doing random things and intermittently working.

Try with drum empty again to to see if the first empty drum run was a coincidence.

 

[SimpleSimon]

Well it won't now stop with or without the load so the only way to get water is to use the pump out function which does work. Really thinking PCB problems.

 

[KINKY]

What is the machine?

 

[SimpleSimon]

Hotpoint WF541 only four and a half years old.

 

[telectrix]

buy domestic appliance breakdown cover from , say, grittish bass, then after a week, phone them.

 

[Mr Mike]

I have a problem with our washing machine not stopping as well.

She just keeps filling the damn thing up with clothes and using it continually

You bad ---, lets hope the good lady does not read thi.....

 

[MarkieSparkie]

Hi Simon, Your machine's symptoms are a common Indesit/Hotpoint problem. It is caused by a faulty heater element. The wash controller won't change cycle to rinse until the set water temperature is correct, so it goes on washing cold indefinitely because it never sees the water temperature correct signal. You can verify this fault by setting to '11' (Quick Wash) and selecting 'No heat' on the front panel. The machine should complete the cycle. This is useful if you have a washing load that has sat in waste water for while as it allows a full cold wash. If this test works confirm the diagnosis in the usual manner by disconnecting the element, first test element resistance between heater terminals it should be in the region of 20 ohms if good, and then IR test between either heater terminal and the ground tag, if <2M ohms replace the element. A new element for this model is approx £25. See link below:
Indesit Washing Machine Element

 

[the pict]

Another thing I have found is the small tube goin to the water level air pressure switch can get blocked telling the pump to keep goin, pull it off the switch and blow down it if you cant is choked, similarly if you get a tube on the end of the switch and blow you should here it click if it dont get a new one
Pict

 

[SimpleSimon]

Hi Simon, Your machine's symptoms are a common Indesit/Hotpoint problem. It is caused by a faulty heater element. The wash controller won't change cycle to rinse until the set water temperature is correct, so it goes on washing cold indefinitely because it never sees the water temperature correct signal. You can verify this fault by setting to '11' (Quick Wash) and selecting 'No heat' on the front panel. The machine should complete the cycle. This is useful if you have a washing load that has sat in waste water for while as it allows a full cold wash. If this test works confirm the diagnosis in the usual manner by disconnecting the element, first test element resistance between heater terminals it should be in the region of 20 ohms if good, and then IR test between either heater terminal and the ground tag, if

Hi Markie.
Seems you have hit the nail on the head. Im going to make a double check and put on a wash with no heat on normal setting. If that's the case the rest should be pretty standard to find out