What is the best was to splice electrical wire to power two components? (Arcade power supply and LCD

[Jackson Greaves]

Hi!
I m doing my first build of an arcade machine. At the back of the arcade cabinet will be an IEC socket for mains power. Inside the machine I then need to split the electrical wires so that the one socket can power both the power supply for the console board (standard jamma power supply) and the LCD monitor. The monitor and power supply both take 240v AC mains power. I was told I could just strip back the kettle lead for the monitor and crimp connect the wires to the power cable for the power supply and wire them both into the back of the IEC socket together. Is this safe if both appliances are rated for the same voltage? To be honest I d rather use a junction box or something but not really sure what type of need or how to wire it exactly. I have slight electrical experience but still basically a noob.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Cheers!

 

[ferg]

Lever wagos and a wago box.

A picture would help

 

[Madocks]

Whats their current usage? is it worthwhilst considering some form over overcurrent protection per device whilst splitting the loads?

 

[SparkyChick]

I'd pickup a power distribution strip. If something goes wrong with an internal part it's a simple case of unplug it and plug it back in.

There is also some debate about whether cutting plugs off invalidates guarantee... manufacturers often state it will, whether this stands up in court has probably not been tested, but personally I would go the route which means this can't be an issue.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Here is a picture of an arcade power supply. The bottom 3 connectors are AC and ground, the upper connections are 12v+ 5v+ ground etc. Here is also as picture of the back of the IEC socket I'm planning to use.

The IEC socket had a built in EMI filter and is fused at 6a. I've been told ideally arcade machine should be fused at 5a? The monitor draws 1.5a and the game board that the power supply will be running draws 5a (I think)

 

[Spoon]

You might be able to use something like this.
http://uk.farnell.com/amp-te-connectivity/160834-2/terminal-crimp-piggyback-6-35mm/dp/2101900

 

[SparkyChick]

Then in that case, I would be inclined to use DIN rail mounted terminals (these MUST be enclosed - providing they are not accessible with the case fully closed and the case requires tools to open, that is good enough for enclosing them).

As @Madocks suggested, if you're not having plugs in there, I think it would be prudent to provide some suitable over current protection for each connected item. DIN rail terminals come in many flavours and can include the capability of having a fuse in them. They are also fairly friendly when it comes to stranded cable. But to do the job well, I would use bootlace ferrules on the cables that are connected to the terminals.

For connecting to the various items, you should be able to use standard blade receptacle crimp connectors for the socket inlet and ring (or fork) connectors for the power supply end. But make sure you have a good crimper... a ratchet type.

For connecting the earth, you should use the earthing flavour of DIN rail terminals as they will earth the DIN rail itself. Make sure you get yourself some P-clips (or an alternative) to provide some strain relief for the cables. Or as an alternative, use something like this to contain the cables in the cabinet:-

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-trunkings/3011924/

With regards to the fusing, it depends entirely on what is being connected and the ratings of the components involved. So if your monitor requires 1.5A and the PSU for the board requires 5A, then a 6A rated fuse/socket inlet is a little undersized and you'd be advised to get one rated at 13A and use say a 7A fuse in the inlet fuse holder.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

You might be able to use something like this.
http://uk.farnell.com/amp-te-connectivity/160834-2/terminal-crimp-piggyback-6-35mm/dp/2101900

That looks pretty cool. So I could just cut the wire half way after the IEC socket, reconnect with these crimps and run the monitor off the "piggy back”connections?

 

[SparkyChick]

Sorry about the dupes... staff are aware and should be along sometime soon to clean them up.

 

[ruston]

Sorry about the dupes... staff are aware and should be along sometime soon to clean them up.

I had your problem the other day . Are you on firefox by any chance.

 

[Spoon]

That looks pretty cool. So I could just cut the wire half way after the IEC socket, reconnect with these crimps and run the monitor off the "piggy back”connections?

I was thinking of maybe using them to connect to the IEC socket and then wire your two items from them.

 

[SparkyChick]

I had your problem the other day . Are you on firefox by any chance.

Yes I am

 

[ruston]

Yes I am

So am I .
Opera won't work at all. Page comes up for a few seconds then crashes.

 

[Jackson Greaves]

Thanks sparkychic! That's some really good info. Those din rail mounted terminals look quite complicated though. Would it be safe to use the piggy back connectors at the IEC socket as Spoon suggested and then wire up the two components via appropriate inline fuses? All these electronics will be sealed within the arcade unit itself. I'd like to save space as much as possible too as this is just a small bartop arcade with fairly limited space.
Thanks all for your help replies!

 

[SparkyChick]

Thanks sparkychic! That's some really good info. Those din rail mounted terminals look quite complicated though. Would it be safe to use the piggy back connectors at the IEC socket as Spoon suggested and then wire up the two components via appropriate inline fuses? All these electronics will be sealed within the arcade unit itself. I'd like to save space as much as possible too as this is just a small bartop arcade with fairly limited space.
Thanks all for your help replies!

Providing the in-line fuse holders are rated for mains voltage and the expected current, then yes, absolutely.

If it's a small cabinet, then yes, the DIN rail terminals may eat space. The key things are choosing components with suitable ratings. 250VAC and 6A+ would be fine.

Just make sure the crimps are good and firm and if you want to be really sure, crimp them and then flow some solder into the crimped cavity (that's what I normally do when I'm not out on a site).

I take it the plan is to run MAME on the cabinet?

Edit: The DIN rail connectors are not that complicated. Just think of them as customisable terminal strips where you can pick and choose the most appropriate connector. They come in all sorts of sizes and just clip onto the metal DIN rail. Couple of end clamps and an end plate and hey presto you have a terminal strip specifically built for your application.