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I have only installed the MK version of A3 CU's, mainly because of their pleasing looks :D

However, after trying to straighten the mcb's etc on the last 3 I've installed and failed, I'm kinda getting less enthusiastic about them. The final nail in the coffin, was trying to connect up some RCBO's, where the CU was located close to the ceiling, where because of the design of their RCBO connections, it was impossible to see if the neutrals were properly terminated, ended up taking RCBO off the din rail, terminating cables, and then placing back on the di rail (see pic below). Also the room available to dress the cables/conductors is limited (especially with RCBO's), made it look a pigs ear, admittedly not my best area :oops:

MK7932S[1].jpg

So, with some new CU's to be installed in the New Year, what makes do you install & why. I'm leaning towards the Hager Design 30, due to the layout inside?
 
They've just brought out ones with round knockouts after listening to feed back.

Seems the majority prefer Hager. However looking at the Design 30, seems quite expensive. Can't see anywhere in their catalogue, where they come fully populated, so extra cost in buying the mcb/rcbo's? (Design 30 16 way VM716CUK £120).

I need to supply a high integrity CU, the Hager listings seem to suggest that's restricted to one or two RCBO's, or can that be adapted just altering the busbar?

Lee, re the round knockouts, is that something you've seen or been told about, again can't seem to find mention of that?
 
I'm getting the Design 10 in 10 way hi integrity fully populated (only MCB's) for the same price as I can get BG/Wylex for. You can have as many ways from main switch and each RCD as you like (obviously to add up to 10 in total).
 
Control Gear RCBO boards are not a great deal more in price, and you have the added advantage of better circuit division than with a dual RCD board. same with SBS.
 
Control Gear RCBO boards are not a great deal more in price, and you have the added advantage of better circuit division than with a dual RCD board. same with SBS.

The problem with both of those is availability. I use 4 or 5 wholesalers on a regular basis and none of them stock those brands. If I want to get hold of something the same day/something turns up damaged I'm stuffed.

The SBS stuff looks good but it worries me that I won't be able to get parts a year or two down the line.
 
The SBS stuff looks good but it worries me that I won't be able to get parts a year or two down the line.

Don't wanna get into knocking SBS stuff, but that's why won't bother with it. I know it shouldn't concern me as the original installer, but I get quite peed off with brands where things are changed, and newer products aren't compatible, which makes adding an mcb or RCBO impossible; same with some small company going out of business. Just my opinion.
 
The SBS boards are a dream to fit with compact rcbos and no functional earth or neutral tails to fill up the board.
Like others however, I do worry about future spares availability!
Just don’t understand why other manufacturers don’t follow the same design.
Will it take a requirement for GFI protection to make them redesign boards?
 
Just had a look at SBS boards, very tempting would like to hear from people who have used them and how they got along with them. Would be worried about continuity of supply appears to be a one man band supplier and how good is the quality control on the breakers etc as probably made in China [like everybody else] but certainly the way forward.
 
Another one for Hager, Solid units that seem very well made. They don’t have the leaning issue you get with MK, BG or proteus. And I can only think of a couple of times I’ve had to replace faulty parts.

Other than the square knockouts the only complaint I would have is the gromit strip they supply being easily knocked off when trying to feed cables through.
 
Another one for Hager, Solid units that seem very well made. They don’t have the leaning issue you get with MK, BG or proteus. And I can only think of a couple of times I’ve had to replace faulty parts.

Other than the square knockouts the only complaint I would have is the gromit strip they supply being easily knocked off when trying to feed cables through.

What about costings?
 
I explain to my customers that they’re not the cheapest on the market but in terms of quality they’re my preferred choice.

For the length of time they’re likely to be in use I think £40 or so difference is well worth it.

I’m just curious about the price. Not seen anthing anywhere near what my wholesalers charges for equivalent MK or Wylex CU’s, on the ti’ternet. Guess I’ll have to speak to them tomorrow for some prices. What do use Design 10 or 30?
 
if you carry a few of the old design mk mcb's with you and stick them on the end of the din rail and use your torque driver you can keep the MK breakers straight, still my board of choice because of price.

second choice would be eaton, a better board and still looks good but dearer

I wish crabtree/wylex would sort the aesthetics out a bit then I would be straight over to that camp!!
 
if you carry a few of the old design mk mcb's with you and stick them on the end of the din rail and use your torque driver you can keep the MK breakers straight, still my board of choice because of price.

second choice would be eaton, a better board and still looks good but dearer

I wish crabtree/wylex would sort the aesthetics out a bit then I would be straight over to that camp!!

Did the same recently, but used din rail blanks instead. They still twisted. Even used a long g clamp to hold them in place whilst, tightening, still same prob.

Wylex do these rounded ones now? Still the camel ---- yellow colour mind;

upload_2017-12-21_14-53-36.jpeg
 
Hager for me!
I personally like the square knock outs as they marry up with the larger sizes of trunking.
Also the rear entry pattress is a great idea, shame they don't include it.
 

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