if you have a cooker outlet connection from the cooker switch, then change this to a double outlet and wire the hob in there. assuming that the feed is 6.0mm this will suffice for both cooker and hob.
edit: there are a few self-employed members in lancashire could come and sort it for you if you are unsure. cost is not very much fo about 1 hour's work.
if you have a cooker outlet connection from the cooker switch, then change this to a double outlet and wire the hob in there. assuming that the feed is 6.0mm this will suffice for both cooker and hob.
edit: there are a few self-employed members in lancashire could come and sort it for you if you are unsure. cost is not very much fo about 1 hour's work.
Thanks for the reply. I've had a look for a double outlet but can find anywhere locally that sell them and need something in time for Christmas dinner...
i did get a quote from an electrician of between ÂŁ45 - ÂŁ65 but a bit reluctant to pay out that much as it'll need disconnecting early in the new year when we change our work tops.
No I wouldn't but at the same time I have basic knowledge of electrics and have changed plug sockets and light switches before. All I'm asking is whether the cooker connection unit will handle the hob and single oven.
The hob is 6700W
The oven is 2400W
The house is only 7 years old (not sure if that makes a difference)
Thanks for the reply. I've had a look for a double outlet but can find anywhere locally that sell them and need something in time for Christmas dinner...
i did get a quote from an electrician of between ÂŁ45 - ÂŁ65 but a bit reluctant to pay out that much as it'll need disconnecting early in the new year when we change our work tops.
No I wouldn't but at the same time I have basic knowledge of electrics and have changed plug sockets and light switches before. All I'm asking is whether the cooker connection unit will handle the hob and single oven.
The hob is 6700W
The oven is 2400W
The house is only 7 years old (not sure if that makes a difference)
Okay what is the current carrying capacity of the cable feeding the hob? What size is the cable? Does it have a functioning cpc? What is the R1+R2 figures for the circuit? What is the zs figures. Is it fed by the correct mcb/rcbo/rcd?
Did you read my post? I'm not saying its an unreasonable quote but as the kitchen work tops are being replaced early in the new year, I don't want to be paying someone ÂŁ45-65 now then having to pay that again when the work tops are being replaced. Especially if its something I can do myself.
Did you read my post? I'm not saying its an unreasonable quote but as the kitchen work tops are being replaced early in the new year, I don't want to be paying someone ÂŁ45-65 now then having to pay that again when the work tops are being replaced. Especially if its something I can do myself.
Can I ask, purely out of interest, why you feel it is fine to mess with electrics yourself, but not the gas? Both are governed by strict regulations, both have legal implications, and both could kill you if you get them wrong.
At least with gas you can generally smell a fault. Electrical faults can lie dormant for ages and strike when you least expect.
Please just pay a few quid to get it installed and tested correctly.
I know this isn't the answer you want, and you're after a step by step guide, but I don't want your wellbeing on my conscience.
Pay the money. When the time comes to replace the work top the hob can be lifted, tilted at an angle and slid down thoroughly the hob cutout in the work top into the unit below. When the new work top has been fitted and a hole cut feed it back through. No need to disconnect the hob.
As tel says in post 2 1st paragraph
change it to a double socket more money for beer fund then when your up and running you can cook that chip on Kems Shoulder :teeth_smile: it's all fixed wiring he's only changing a face plate Ffs
Well Gazfocus you're fairly peed off by now.
What you wanted was information and what you got was advice. None of us likes advice that tells us not to do what we want to do - especially if we know in our hearts that it's right.
The reason you got all this advice was that what you thought was going to be a simple "plug it in" job is - as has been pointed out - not simple.
You've gone from a 2.4KW load to a 9.1KW load - and they are all going to be on for the Xmas dinner.
The big fear is; is the cable up for the 40 amp load, will the insulation overheat? The insulation on the cable is good for 70deg but if it softens with a continuous high operating temp then a house fire is a big risk.
I'm sorry that some of us are a bit "abrupt" in our manner. We wish you a happy, but mainly a safe, Xmas.
Did you read my post? I'm not saying its an unreasonable quote but as the kitchen work tops are being replaced early in the new year, I don't want to be paying someone ÂŁ45-65 now then having to pay that again when the work tops are being replaced. Especially if its something I can do myself.
Ok mate. Use a single to double socket convertor and add a plug to each of the new units. Switch them both on and see what happens. With any luck all you'll do is blow some fuses.
Unbelieveable.
You could need a new dedicated cooker circuit and that could be ÂŁ150 or more.
Just to add to the interesting topic, have you read the installation manual? I ask because some hobs specifically state that a heat resistant cable should be used. This can be difficult to source and should be the priority if you want it to be used during Christmas :thumbsup
Reply to Wiring an electric hob and oven in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net
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