Wiring bath room LED's and extractor fans | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Wiring bath room LED's and extractor fans in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

Departing a little from the original thread, i was watching an Aussie TV programme on cable last night called ''The Block''. Where DIY contestants along with their various tradesmen are doing up individual apartments in a block of flats. Last night they were doing the bathrooms, and hey ho, low and behold ''ALL'' of the bathrooms had double socket outlets by the vanity sink, as well as the light and fan switches.... lol!!

So yet another country, that has no problem with electrical outlets etc, in it's bathrooms. It seems as i have pointed out many times now, it's only the UK that has draconian rules regarding bathroom electrical installations!! ...lol!!
 
There you have it then, totally ignore any manufacturer instruction to include a fuse, if it doesn't need fuse protection in other countries, then it sure as hell don't need one in the UK either!! If the fan needs a protective device, it's down to the manufacturer to provide that protection, not the installation electrician, and i again point out that the BS1362 fuses are for cable/cord protection and NOT the appliance!!

Yes but in other countries the women have beards....


So what ????????
 
agreed. just come back from Turkey. new hotel. hair dryer hard wired next to sink and a socket outlet alongside.
 
i agree, i'm trying to make all as unobtrusive as possible. Client does not want pull switches in bathrooms, therefore all accessories for lights / fan are to be sited outside bathroom. so DP as Richard /Burns has suggested. 3 amp fuse to protect fan and 1w light switch + 3 pole isolation switch. a lot for a bathroom.

So the isolation is outside the room where the equipment is, would the worker be in control of this switch? hard when its not in the same room, if not is it lockable?

If you want less accessories you could always fit a fan that doesnt require 3A fuse and use the devices in the fuseboard for isolation, 7671 happy, manuf instructions complied with. there will be some that claim you need local isolation for non skilled workers to maintain fan, how many people actually maintain fans and does it say in the manuf instructions that only qualified personnel to work on fan? if you cant lock off and prove dead i dont think you should be working on it.

there is also the 'need light when working on fan' argument although i have no idea where it comes from and holds no water with me.
 
there is also the 'need light when working on fan' argument although i have no idea where it comes from and holds no water with me.


​must have been fitted by a plumber then.
 
So the isolation is outside the room where the equipment is, would the worker be in control of this switch? hard when its not in the same room, if not is it lockable?

If you want less accessories you could always fit a fan that doesnt require 3A fuse and use the devices in the fuseboard for isolation, 7671 happy, manuf instructions complied with. there will be some that claim you need local isolation for non skilled workers to maintain fan, how many people actually maintain fans and does it say in the manuf instructions that only qualified personnel to work on fan? if you cant lock off and prove dead i dont think you should be working on it.

there is also the 'need light when working on fan' argument although i have no idea where it comes from and holds no water with me.

Are not all "isolation switches" situated outside typical sized bathrooms both in domestic and commercial situations?
 
Bit of a expansive question there, broadly speaking domestic yes commercial less so, my point was if its not lockable and outside the room the operative would not be in control of it, therefore if you wanted a lockable one you would be looking at the devices in the board. Such a mute point anyway as who would do it, fan isolator generally get used as a functional switch, and are incorrectly sited (if not lockable) for their original purpose. Do away with them.
 
In reply to the op it is possible to achieve fan isolation of all lives, fusing of both lines and have the bathroom light unaffected by fan isolation using just a dp sfcu and a dp light switch. The wiring is a bit 'busy'.
Supply into dp switch, two x two core cables to sfcu and one x three core from sfcu to fan. Connect as follows :- Supply l to dp light sw S1, n to wago in light sw back box. Using one of the two cores cables, light sw S1 to sfcu l supply, sfcu l load back to light sw S2. Second two core, light sw L2 to wago in sfcu back box, n from light sw wago to sfcu supply n. 3 core is connected to sfcu l load, sfcu n load and switched line to sfcu wago. The light is connected to dp light sw L1 and n to light sw n wago.
Description looks confusing but draw it out
 
why don't you just buy a fan that doesn't require a 3a fused isolator sw.
I think that"s what I'll do. I'm after 4inch (100mm) ceiling type fan, time delay,and IP65 as sited in en -suits. Any recommendations re fans?

As on ceiling...that would be classed as out side all zones?
 

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