Wiring induction hob (not working)

[onthetools]

Hi all, I've just tried wiring an indesit IB65B60 induction hob. I read the instruction manual and it said for 240v connections to put the brown/black wires together on the live circuit, earth for earth and the blue/grey wires on the neutral.

When I turned the power back on the induction hob was working fine, went back to try it later and now only one side of the hob is working (2 rings out of 4).

Would be really grateful if someone could tell me if I'm doing something wrong here? Or if the hob itself is just faulty?

Thanks!

 

[littlespark]

Double check your connections are tight. Power off obviously….

Last induction hob I fitted was same brown/black together and blue/grey together.

Induction jobs don’t work fully unless there’s a pan on hob.
Are you getting any response on the faulty side?

 

[onthetools]

Double check your connections are tight. Power off obviously….

Last induction hob I fitted was same brown/black together and blue/grey together.

Induction jobs don’t work fully unless there’s a pan on hob.
Are you getting any response on the faulty side?

Many thanks for the reply littlespark. I double checked connections and made sure they were tight, didn't seem to be any issues. When I use a hob on the left hand side (the side that isn't working) the numbers flash up and I try putting a pan on but it just doesn't start powering up. I move the pan over to the right and it starts powering up immediately.

As I say, weird thing is the whole hob was working (or so I believe) when I first installed it. I'm thinking now maybe it's just a faulty hob?

Thanks again

 

[westward10]

Do you have the cable clamp that is missing from the outlet plate.

 

[littlespark]

Good spot, Westy.

And the clamp should be on the outer sheath, not the inner cores

 

[DPG]

Do you have the cable clamp that is missing from the outlet plate.

You never miss a bloody thing you Westy.

 

[onthetools]

Hi all, thanks for the replies, yes I still have the clamp. I have now tried connecting the oven too and that's not turning on now (was working a couple of days ago). So hob and oven are connected but only one side of the hob works. Looking like it's not an appliance fault, maybe wire isn't delivering enough power? It's a 40amp fuse and both appliance say they need a 30amp. Any last things I can try before calling in the experts? Cheers all

 

[Lucien Nunes]

maybe wire isn't delivering enough power? It's a 40amp fuse and both appliance say they need a 30amp.

No, it doesn't work like that. If the supply is insufficient, everything will still work but the fuse will blow / circuit breaker will trip if too much is used at once. 40A is quite sufficient for all normal domestic cooking needs, even 32A total is usually sufficient, so don't worry about that at this stage. (although note that some ovens require a lower fuse than 40A to comply with manufacturers' safety requirements.)

If the appliances aren't functioning either they are faulty or there is a bad connection somewhere between them and the supply that is known to be working. The first test would either be continuity or for the presence of mains at the appliance terminals themselves.

 

[marconi]

I do not think at the moment your hob is faulty because you would see some fault codes.

Are you using the metal pans required for an Ind Hob? See:

What Pans can you use on an Induction Hob? - https://circulon.uk.com/blogs/the-culinary-circle/which-pans-can-you-use-on-an-induction-hob

The right metal pans are ferromagnetic so if you hold a magnet to the base there will be attraction. Aluminium pans don’t work cos not magnetic. Normally it says on pan if it is ind hob suitable.

Each hob area has a sensor looking for the right type of pan. Even when the pan is ostensibly Indy hob suitable, ie it has a ferromagnetic region, if the pan base happens to made of other metal as well the sensor may not detect the pan as present because the signal is too weak. In which case the hob will not power up. See page 6/10 ‘Pots and pans’ of instruction manual:

https://whirlpool-cdn.thron.com/static/RSQH5C_400011638983EN_GCG9FI.pdf?xseo=&response-content-disposition=inline;filename="doc.pdf"

Why the pan works on right but not left side is then down to the differences in pan detection signal strength on either side noting that the two right positions are identical but not the same as either of the two on the left.

 

[mainline]

I've never known a pan to work on one side and not the other.

But I have seen cheap induction hobs that looked fine from the outside but inside was falling to bits due to being banged about in the carriage.

 

[Midwest]

I do not think at the moment your hob is faulty because you would see some fault codes.

Are you using the metal pans required for an Ind Hob? See:

What Pans can you use on an Induction Hob? - https://circulon.uk.com/blogs/the-culinary-circle/which-pans-can-you-use-on-an-induction-hob

The right metal pans are ferromagnetic so if you hold a magnet to the base there will be attraction. Aluminium pans don’t work cos not magnetic. Normally it says on pan if it is ind hob suitable.

Each hob area has a sensor looking for the right type of pan. Even when the pan is ostensibly Indy hob suitable, ie it has a ferromagnetic region, if the pan base happens to made of other metal as well the sensor may not detect the pan as present because the signal is too weak. In which case the hob will not power up. See page 6/10 ‘Pots and pans’ of instruction manual:

https://whirlpool-cdn.thron.com/static/RSQH5C_400011638983EN_GCG9FI.pdf?xseo=&response-content-disposition=inline;filename="doc.pdf"

Why the pan works on right but not left side is then down to the differences in pan detection signal strength on either side noting that the two right positions are identical but not the same as either of the two on the left.

Looking at the instructions, the unit displays a code (something like this u u) for 'POT INCORRECTLY POSITIONED OR MISSING'. It then turns itself off after 30 secs. So unless that displays, can't be the pan(s).

 

[marconi]

I think what I said is still plausible. For the hob to detect an incorrectly positioned pan it has first to detect the pan being 'present' on the hob. It then uses an array of 'pan present' detectors to establish the footprint of the pan in relation to the induction coil to determine if the pan is correctly positioned.

Before power is applied or for a short duration after power up it has to confirm the pan is induction hob suitable so as not to damage the induction coil and the hf current generation circuitry. This is done by various forms of voltage and current monitoring in the hf power generation supply to the hob induction coil.

Additionally it has to detect the pan is not empty of contents by sensing the rise in temperature over time or by proxy using the coil current change over time noting that as the pan heats up so does its resistance so induced current levels will reduce in the pan secondary 'winding' and thus in the induction coil 'primary' winding.

A number of over/under threshold detection circuits need to be satisfied then before things proceed correctly. Things can be awry if the pan sensing is affected by the wrong type of pan, an inadequate ind hob pan, shape of pan footprint, a simple incompatibility between the pan and hob and even air gaps between the pan bottom and hob surface because of domed/distorted pan bottoms.

And I could be completely wrong as ever but it seems unsuitable pans or inadequate ind hob friendly pans are often the trouble for no hob power up.

Quite easy to try some different induction friendly pans filled with water.

 

[littlespark]

All that above….

Or it could actually be faulty. Hope you kept the receipt

 

[mainline]

All that above….

Or it could actually be faulty. Hope you kept the receipt

Or maybe wrongly connected at the hob end ? Link left out ?

 

[marconi]

There are no connections or links at the hob end to make. The hob is supplied with two cables to connect containing brown S and black R for line, blue sleeved grey T and blue N for neutral and green/yellow E which was shown done correctly in the first picture.

See page 4 of 10 of manual.