Would you use an old CU to extend cables.

[MJS_84]

I recently inspected a job in a 1960s-era apartment building. Three of the properties have old Wylex rewireable consumer units (CUs) with Pyro wiring.

To minimize damage to the 50-year-old Pyro, which passed testing, I propose the following approach:

1. Utilize the old CU as a junction box.
2. Remove the internal components and install a DIN rail.
3. Extend the cables using DIN rail connectors.
4. Construct a wooden support in front for the new consumer unit.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

 

[Spoon]

Construct a wooden support in front for the new consumer unit.

I suppose you are doing this as there is no room to fit the new CU adjacent to the old one? It's just that the new one is going to be sticking out quite a bit, if its in front of the old one.

 

[MJS_84]

I suppose you are doing this as there is no room to fit the new CU adjacent to the old one? It's just that the new one is going to be sticking out quite a bit, if its in front of the old one.

Limited space. It is in a cupboard. So they'll lose a bit of cupboard space.

 

[westward10]

If you are rendering the DIN rail inaccessible in normal use then it needs to be maintenance free.

 

[MJS_84]

If you are rendering the DIN rail inaccessible in normal use then it needs to be maintenance free.

Planning to use wago din connectors. My main concern is it's rough .. but it's a better option that damaging the pyro getting that box out.

 

[James]

I recently inspected a job in a 1960s-era apartment building. Three of the properties have old Wylex rewireable consumer units (CUs) with Pyro wiring.

To minimize damage to the 50-year-old Pyro, which passed testing, I propose the following approach:

1. Utilize the old CU as a junction box.
2. Remove the internal components and install a DIN rail.
3. Extend the cables using DIN rail connectors.
4. Construct a wooden support in front for the new consumer unit.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

I have done similar in the past, although it was side by side, not one on top of the other.

2 suggestions, they may / may not be suitable for the space available.

1
the lid of the old fuse box will have big holes in it when you have removed the fuse gear and main switch
I have screwed / pop riveted an aluminium sheet over the face of old boards in the past to seal up the big holes in the front.

2
when you construct the wooden support, use a sheet of ply on the front of it to mount the new board to.
pass the cables through the rear entry of the new board through a hole drilled in the ply.
use a couple of hinges on the bottom of the ply and then screw the top to the batons.

If you need to get behind it to fault find or check any of the cables / joints, you can undo the top screws and fold the new board down to access behind it.

 

[MJS_84]

I have done similar in the past, although it was side by side, not one on top of the other.

2 suggestions, they may / may not be suitable for the space available.

1
the lid of the old fuse box will have big holes in it when you have removed the fuse gear and main switch
I have screwed / pop riveted an aluminium sheet over the face of old boards in the past to seal up the big holes in the front.

2
when you construct the wooden support, use a sheet of ply on the front of it to mount the new board to.
pass the cables through the rear entry of the new board through a hole drilled in the ply.
use a couple of hinges on the bottom of the ply and then screw the top to the batons.

If you need to get behind it to fault find or check any of the cables / joints, you can undo the top screws and fold the new board down to access behind it.

Like the idea of hinging the ply. It was in the back of my mind that if there is a fault back there it would be a nightmare.

I was planning to bung the holes, and screw a blank plate over the main switch. But I like your idea better.