Hi,
To give a bit of background, it is a Lincat ESLR9 electric cooker. It is very simple design with two fans and two elements.
Two weeks ago the cooker made a bang and tripped the consumer unit, upon inspection I could see that the contactor appeared burnt-out and a wire on a heating element...
I'd appreciate a quick sanity check, thanks in advance:
New circuit for a 3 phase cooker, in a community centre (run by a charity). Total load 16.5kW: L1 27A, L2 27A, L3 15A. (6kW oven, 6 hotplates: 3x 2kW, 3x 1.5kW).
Commercial setting so no diversity: 3x 32A OCPD. (?)
TN-C-S, so Zs...
I have just had my kitchen redone and the kitchen rewired with a new 6mm cable installed for an electric cooker.
However I have changed my mind and now will be installing an all gas cooker instead of an electric cooker.
The gas cooker comes with a plug for the hob lighter and oven light...
(Trying again, as picture didn't post first time)
Hi, I'd be very grateful if anyone could help me here. Below, I've pasted a sketch showing how my oven is currently wired up, followed by 3 potential solutions, but of course I'd be more than happy to see alternative propositions. But let me...
Cooker circuit has B40 MCB in the CU for the cooker, confirmed wired to the cooker outlet throughout, via a cooker switch & socket with a 10mm cable.
Issue is new cooker has a 1.5mm cable (fitted by manufacturer see image). It is 3.22KW rated load, and 16A fuse rating. The cooker connection too...
Hello Guys
Looking for some advice with regards to a extension job. Customer has ordered a Rangemaster Induction Hob and Oven.
I've looked at the specification and it states that potential full load is 14.8Kw. My initial plan was to run a 10mm Twin and Earth but I'm wondering if it would...
Hi
So converting a 6mm cooker connection point into a 13a unswitched fuse spur with the load being a 2.5mm pre wired cable from a oven .
is this suitable?
thanks
sid
Hi All,
My 1 and half Smeg cooker recently tripped when using the main fan oven. It was during quite a long period of cooking a roast. We reset the electrics and continued without issue. A few days later it happened again and now it does not get hot.
The smaller oven still works.
I assumed...
Hi there, wondering if anyone can give me some advice please.
In my kitchen I have a cooker switch with a plug socket which I believe is on a dedicated circuit. If I test it with a Voltage Tester it read all correct as it should. Now if I turn off the Mcb on the CU which is labeled "Cooker" it...
Hi,
With respect to the cooker switch only. If I moved it 400mm to the left by extending the T&E from its original position using crimps, then tile over the original back box, would it satisfy regs by maintaining the modified circuit within the prescribed zone (assuming all other rules are...
Further to my other thread about the connected neutral. I have decided to write (politely) to the rather difficult customer and explain that I was right to indicate that the cooker was potentially dangerous.
However, I thought I better check to see if it actually is!
I found my results and the...
There is a severe lack of sockets in our kitchen.
We have a cooker control switch with a single socket in it, but no cooker connected.
Would it be possible to run extra 13A sockets off the cooker control circuit?
If so, would this need to be done by an electrician to be complient with regs...
A client has a Kenwood CK405 dual fuel range cooker, for which the smaller of the 2 ovens doesn't work. The elements tested out fine, but live tests showed that both N and L sides of the elements were at 230V to E, so presumably an open neutral.
I'm guessing it's a loose connection somewhere...
Hi
I am attempting some DIY
I had the wire installed as I was going to have an electric cooker. This changed and I now just want to put a double switched socket in the hole.
Could someone please tell me how I can convert the wire so it is smaller and fits in the back of a standard switched...
Hi folks, DIYer here, hoping for some advice before most likely calling in a spark. I'm looking to wire in new cooker and hob (separate units). Max draw 3.5kW and 7kW respectively. I believe the circuit is radial from consumer unit (32A RCD) to 45A DP switch plus socket. Have done diversity...
Evening all,
I'm upgrading my kitchen electrics replacing the current gas hob for an induction hob. The oven was previously plugged into the kitchen ring. My thoughts are that with diversity and the fact both the oven and hob are on 13amp plugs or rated at less than that, then they could go on...
I have measured the following readings to earth on a twin oven---- Element 1... 0.149, Element 2... 0.9, Element 3... 0.88 , Element 4 0.08. These all with the merger set at 500v. they all seem low to me especially Element 4, needless to say the RCD trips randomly.
Even if the cooker and the plug is turned off it still trips after about an hour. It doesn't immediately trip out but it usually always turns back off after an hour or two, it doesn't immediately trip out. Do you think I need a new plug? Can a device plugged into another circuit trip a different...
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