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Angles on PVC Trunking

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RDB85

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I’m doing a large install with PVC Trunking I had a Magnusson Mitre block but it’s not that great with a large hacksaw.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use and a decent saw?
 
Manufactured bends, then you can be as hacky as you like…..

I’ve got one of those tin snip type tools with a mitre plate. Leaves a clean edge, not all burred up that needs filed smooth.

Not a fan of the bends. They are okay in some places but I want to make this as neat as possible.
 
I’m doing a large install with PVC Trunking I had a Magnusson Mitre block but it’s not that great with a large hacksaw.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use and a decent saw?
4" battery Angle Dangle, chop chop, Bob's your auntie's sister.
 
Not a fan of the bends. They are okay in some places but I want to make this as neat as possible.
If your wall is in any was shonky, even the slightest shonkiness, and mitred corners will be a pig unless you use CA glue and activator spray, which to be frank is a pain in the small donkey.
 
I know it’s not robust enough. But I at least want it to look good. I will be filling in and around with caulk. I’m just after some tools etc to make the job that much easier.
 
What type of installation as well

Is this something surface in pvc trunking with 20mm drops or what is it ?

Anything big I ever did was steel so not that familiar
 
What about this sort of mitre saw? Cheap and provide accurate cutting at any angle - downside is how much space it takes up.

 
Personally, working with trunking 25 x 16, It is never going to look like a Michelangelo. I use the separate clip on angles you can get to form any angles and terminations. I also think that the cutting of the trunking is less important than the lid. If you cut that right and as you say caulk it then that is as good as it gets. If you are using trunking you must know you cannot make a silk purse out of a sows' ear.
 
I’ve seen these, but I’m not sure if they are any good.

Deal: FLORA GUARD Miter Shears - 45 to 135 Degree Multi Angle Trim Cutter, Gasket Shear for Cutting Soft Wood, Plastic, PVC and More, Including 2 Spare Blades FLORA GUARD Miter Shears - 45 to 135 Degree Multi Angle Trim Cutter, Gasket Shear for Cutting Soft Wood, Plastic, PVC and More, Including 2 Spare Blades : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SHBYDDP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_0KNQDB5N83EQ56TCHCPQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Saw:

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/magnu...VSOztCh2x7wpUEAQYASABEgJZQfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Mitre Box:

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/mitre-box/7048v
 
I’ve never seen one before. They look interesting.
They are very good for precise cuts, the one I linked to is my preferred style as it is more versatile but if you do a search on Japanese pull saws they are available in different styles
Before I got a multi tool I would use the pull saw for undercutting architraves and skirting boards as they are quite flexible. I use them now where it is difficult to get the multi tool in or where I need a deeper cut than a multi tool blade allows. For plastics they don't seem to make as a rough cut like some saws do so for cutting trunking or waste pipes I find you can get a neat square cut
 
Looking good and filling any 'gaps' with caulk (which can look s......te after a few weeks/months) doesn't bode well for for the best of looks!
I always go around the edges with caulk. Because I’ve used a large hacksaw in the past it’s not the smoothest of cuts. Something like the Japanese Saw may change that. Plus its getting painted to match the room. A bit of caulk on the mitre joints isn’t so bad.

Any helpful suggestions from yourself?
 
I would always use the preformed angles and T's, box adaptors etc. for the most professional job but you've already dismissed that idea in previous threads.

I've tried mitre saws and whilst give a good 'edge' buildings are never 'square' so makes it very difficult to cut it perfectly!
 
I would always use the preformed angles and T's, box adaptors etc. for the most professional job but you've already dismissed that idea in previous threads.

I've tried mitre saws and whilst give a good 'edge' buildings are never 'square' so makes it very difficult to cut it perfectly!

I’ve not seen the angle adaptors. I just know when we were showing the client the end caps and t boxes they didn’t like them so asked if we could cut the Trunking and then smooth over it with some caulk. As they said it was being painted.
 
Keeping the customer happy is key, and it's not as if its a deviation from the regs (unless using singles and they show through gaps in the joints)! which there wont be if filled and painted.
 

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