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RDB85

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So last night I noticed that the Socket behind the TV was not working. Plugged in my Kewtech plug tester and nothing. So turned off the MCB for the downstairs sockets. Undone the Socket and its been spurred using new colours from the 13A FCU. Changed the 13A fuse in the FCU, checked the cables and nothing seems out of the ordinary.

There is a socket below that which is wired in Old Colours, which has been there forever. I am just wondering if there is an issue with the FCU, or the wiring itself.

Screwed it all back and then turned the MCB back on. Our house is currently wired in Old Colours, with a Square D CCU. Anyway plugged my socket tester in and again nothing. Would anyone have any ideas what it could be?

Is there any test equipment I could buy to allow me to do some testing, other than a Test Metre as i don't have a lot of money at the moment.
 
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Pete999 said:
OP you could try looking at the YouTube videos on Testing etc, the guy I sent you a video of is very good, there are many equally good presenters in there, worth a look if you are really interested, give it a bash.
Click to expand...

Thanks Pete. I’ve seen a few of Chris’s videos before. They are really good. I will have a look at them.
 
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So I spoke to my tutor yesterday and luckily they went through safe isolation and then how to test a 3 phase distribution board. I have seen this kit on ebay: Socket And See SP200 proving unit And Socket & See Voltage Tester VIP Pro | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-And-See-SP200-proving-unit-And-Socket-See-Voltage-Tester-VIP-Pro/293104145650?hash=item443e5e54f2:g:JIEAAOSwKotc69r5

Would that be okay as it seems to be a good price, but I have never heard of the brand. Or shall I just look at a Megger?

Megger:

www.test-meter.co.uk

Megger Safe Isolation Kit

Megger Safe Isolation Kit The Megger TPT420 and MPU690 Voltage Detection Kit is ideal for proving that an installation is dead before safe isolation procedures. Megger TPT420 AC/DC Voltage Tester The Megger TPT420 Two-Pole Voltage Tester can measure AC voltage between 12 to 1000 V and DC voltage...
www.test-meter.co.uk www.test-meter.co.uk
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
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RDB85 said:
So I spoke to my tutor yesterday and luckily they went through safe isolation and then how to test a 3 phase distribution board. I have seen this kit on ebay: Socket And See SP200 proving unit And Socket & See Voltage Tester VIP Pro | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-And-See-SP200-proving-unit-And-Socket-See-Voltage-Tester-VIP-Pro/293104145650?hash=item443e5e54f2:g:JIEAAOSwKotc69r5

Would that be okay as it seems to be a good price, but I have never heard of the brand. Or shall I just look at a Megger?

Megger:

www.test-meter.co.uk

Megger Safe Isolation Kit

Megger Safe Isolation Kit The Megger TPT420 and MPU690 Voltage Detection Kit is ideal for proving that an installation is dead before safe isolation procedures. Megger TPT420 AC/DC Voltage Tester The Megger TPT420 Two-Pole Voltage Tester can measure AC voltage between 12 to 1000 V and DC voltage...
www.test-meter.co.uk www.test-meter.co.uk
Click to expand...
Aa long as the kit complies, but Kewtec for me.
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
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Just bought an MK FCU. I’ve now safe isolated the circuit. I’ve split it so I have the circuit for the outside light. Which is to the right and then a circuit coming from the top. Old colours are from the socket below and the new colours are from the spurred socket.

Looking at the back of the MK socket it had the supply and load. I am looking at how it was wired previously

Load would be the outside light and the Supply would be the sockets.

Would that be correct?
 
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So the old coloured cables are part of the existing RFC and the new colour is a spur socket from the RFC?
 
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Spoon said:
So the old coloured cables are part of the existing RFC and the new colour is a spur socket from the RFC?
Click to expand...

New colours are from the addition socket that is spurred from the FCU. Old colours are from the RFC. As all the sockets downstairs are on a RFC. Which is then has a feed from that socket to the FCU.
 
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Socket on the bottom is on a RFC. Which is in old colours. It then has a spur to the FCU above in old colours. There is then flex for the light in old colours in the FCU. Then the final socket is then spurred from the FCU in new colours.

Good news is the outside light works.
 

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So tried again, bought a new lamp for the outside light. Wired the spur so that the Load Side is the Light and the Supply is the sockets. Tested the socket under the bracket. Still not working with the Socket Tester. Tried the FCU with the new lamp. Nothing.

I then looked at the wiring on the RFC, it seems that one of the live (red) is quite short. It reaches into the socket but barely, so I have got a crimping tool, some blue crimps and some 2.5mm2 T&E. So I am going to try and extend any short cables. Although the socket tester has come back all green lights, showing no faults.
 
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RDB85 said:
So tried again, bought a new lamp for the outside light. Wired the spur so that the Load Side is the Light and the Supply is the sockets. Tested the socket under the bracket. Still not working with the Socket Tester. Tried the FCU with the new lamp. Nothing.

I then looked at the wiring on the RFC, it seems that one of the live (red) is quite short. It reaches into the socket but barely, so I have got a crimping tool, some blue crimps and some 2.5mm2 T&E. So I am going to try and extend any short cables. Although the socket tester has come back all green lights, showing no faults.
Click to expand...

So if the light, wired to the new FCU is not working then the problem is going to be before this.
Is your bottom socket functioning ok?
 
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RDB85 said:
Yes the bottom socket is okay. Tested with a socket tester and it’s all green. TV is plugged in and working.
Click to expand...

Edit... Brain fart moment...

So just to recap. The bottom socket is working. This wires to the new FCU which is not working.
Are the wires going from the bottom socket to the FCU ok?
 
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Spoon said:
Edit... Brain fart moment...

So just to recap. The bottom socket is working. This wires to the new FCU which is not working.
Are the wires going from the bottom socket to the FCU ok?
Click to expand...

Yes that’s correct. The wiring appears to be okay. No signs of damage. But as mentioned one of the lives although reaches just, is a little short. So I was thinking of maybe adding some blue butt crimps to that and then using some 2.5mm2 twin and earth to extend the cable. Just to see could that be the issue .
 
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RDB85 said:
Yes that’s correct. The wiring appears to be okay. No signs of damage. But as mentioned one of the lives although reaches just, is a little short. So I was thinking of maybe adding some blue butt crimps to that and then using some 2.5mm2 twin and earth to extend the cable. Just to see could that be the issue .
Click to expand...

The cable length looked ok in the pics you posted up before, but you are there so you will know... :)
If the light to the new FCU isn't working or the socket wired to the FCU, then it seems to suggest its the cable from the bottom socket to the FCU that may be at fault.
 
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Spoon said:
The cable length looked ok in the pics you posted up before, but you are there so you will know... :)
If the light to the new FCU isn't working or the socket wired to the FCU, then it seems to suggest its the cable from the bottom socket to the FCU that may be at fault.
Click to expand...

Those cables look okay as I say. Would it be okay to do a butt crimp on the live and use the brown from the 2.5 t&e as a new live?
 
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RDB85 said:
Those cables look okay as I say. Would it be okay to do a butt crimp on the live and use the brown from the 2.5 t&e as a new live?
Click to expand...

If you need to extend one on the cables then using a butt crimp and descent heatshrink would be one way of doing it.
Someone did post a nice little inline connector (Not Wago) in a past post, that looked good.
 
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