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How do I wire this according to diagram?

Discuss How do I wire this according to diagram? in the Electric Underfloor Heating Wiring area at ElectriciansForums.net

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DaVigg

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Aug 11, 2021
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Hi guys!
I bought a pool heater online and this Is the wiring diagram that comes with It. Can someone please tell me if this Is possible? From what I understand the 3 wires from the heater must be spliced together with just 1 wire 127w from my main panel but the diagram reads 220v

Thanks for tour help.
 

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Hi. We will need more info. Could you post
Technical specs / model number of the pool heater.
Information about the supply in your panel. Single or 3-phase?

I've seen some funny translations in instruction manuals but 'Firewire' for 'hot wire' i.e. line is pretty impressive.
I used to rely on Firewire for a lot of data transfer in systems I built. Seems like only yesterday but even Thunderbolt 1 and 2 are going obsolete now.

Attn. Brits: OP is in México City where single-phase is usually 127V derived from 220/127 3-phase. There is also 380V 3-phase. And 60Hz.
 
Lucien Nunes said:
Hi. We will need more info. Could you post
Technical specs / model number of the pool heater.
Information about the supply in your panel. Single or 3-phase?

I've seen some funny translations in instruction manuals but 'Firewire' for 'hot wire' i.e. line is pretty impressive.
I used to rely on Firewire for a lot of data transfer in systems I built. Seems like only yesterday but even Thunderbolt 1 and 2 are going obsolete now.

Attn. Brits: OP is in México City where single-phase is usually 127V derived from 220/127 3-phase. There is also 380V 3-phase. And 60Hz.
Click to expand...
Sure thing. The supply on my panel Is single phase 220V meaning my utility company provides 2 live wires and one N wire. Attached you'll find the technical specs and a photo of where the wiring Is supposed to go.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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If the line (hot) wires are 220V apart, and both 127V from the neutral, then you do have 220V available but the problem is that the unit will have been designed with the expectation of the neutral being near ground potential, not 127V above it. It would function but possibly not be safe. I spy one edge of a contactor that breaks only the red wires so that would leave the elements live in this setup. Only the manufacturer could advise whether it is acceptable to operate it between two hots.

On another note, does anyone else thing the neutral cable to the terminal block is a bit small for 50A? Not sure I can properly guess its size from the pic, just looks a bit slim.
 
So if i understand correctly. In perder for this heater to work i should splice 2 red wires of the appliance to 1 hot wire and the single red an N wires to the other hot wire??

Thanks!
 
DaVigg said:
So if i understand correctly. In perder for this heater to work i should splice 2 red wires of the appliance to 1 hot wire and the single red an N wires to the other hot wire??

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
single red an N wires to the other hot wire
Click to expand...

No, don't do that!

I think this is a job that we cannot give sufficient advice about on the forum. It needs input from a local competent electrician and possibly the manufacturers. The heater looks like a 3-phase unit that is sold as single-phase for a different voltage, but appears to be the wrong voltage for this supply and may or may not be convertable. Suitability of earthing methods also needs checking. There are too many variables to be confident that we would get it right from the little information available, and of all appliances an 11kW pool heater needs to be installed correctly.
 
The original manufacturer of this type of pool heater is Coates Inc., whose website carries a warning about copies of their products.

Counterfeit Warning | Coates Heater

www.coatesheater.com www.coatesheater.com
The photo's of rating plates on the copies show examples with the same Model No. as the o/p's.

I don't think reliable advice will be forthcoming from the manufacturers. I feel someone with experience of good equipment practice should have a look at this to decide if it is in fact safe enough to use, especially as Lucien says, given the many variables.
 
Good spot. The OP's heater has 'GRM' for 'GPM' and 'FIOW' for 'FLOW' suggesting the label is also an OCR copy. And they can't even be bothered to imitate the CE mark, just put the letters 'CE' on there.

I was suspicious from the moment I saw 'FireWire'.
 
The manufacturer Is nowhere to be found online or otherwise and local electricians are not very helpful since they learn the tarde from their families. Im open to any suggestions guys.

Thanks.
 
Good spot on the counterfeit issue.

I certainly don't think I'd be sitting in a pool heated by that unless it had been given a VERY thorough check over by someone qualified to do so.
 

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