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thank you for your replies.

I opened another lamp and the driver is somewhat different, (in picture) it has no resistor, do i need specific software to program these ones.

This one is working, i wad just testing to see the led's are working fine before ordering the replacement driver, which they are.
 

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thank you for your replies.

I opened another lamp and the driver is somewhat different, (in picture) it has no resistor, do i need specific software to program these ones.

This one is working, i wad just testing to see the led's are working fine before ordering the replacement driver, which they are.
Without a resistor it delivers 700mA, which is more than we were assuming the fitting needed.
That might contribute to shortening the life of the fitting?

The tech info is here: https://www.led-bg.com/uploads/docu...tion-guide-4dimlt2-led-drivers_1441816016.pdf

You don't need software to program it, the documentation says it is still settable with a resistor, and to get it to supply 600mA, you would need an 8k2 resistor between the "LEDset" terminal and the "LED-" terminal.

Alternatively if you can find any info that suggests it's OK to drive the LED fittings at 700mA, just continue to use and replace the Optotronic ones without adding any resistor.
 
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How are these lights controlled ?
Do they dim or are they fixed output?
Do you turn them on with a simple switch?

Reason for asking is that they do appear to be using quite complex drivers for simply on/off
 
How are these lights controlled ?
Do they dim or are they fixed output?
Do you turn them on with a simple switch?

Reason for asking is that they do appear to be using quite complex drivers for simply on/off
Good question - I thought the difficulty is that the LED fittings require about 115V to give the desired brightness, and budget drivers I've looked at can't provide the necessary voltage to produce the desired current.
There may be a simple 600mA 75W (115V) driver out there, but with a quick look I haven't found one that I'd trust! (there are some real cheap bare boards with extravagant claims!)
 
The Tridonic Outdoor range are brilliant drivers for high voltage. I have used around 100 on a project and they have been bullet proof apart from one which was powering a long row of tree lights that got attacked by lawnmower man.
Tridonic have, unfortunately (and i can understand why) made their fixed output range now multi fixed by NFC programming. They have updated their Dali to Dali2 and made them NFC programmable. The drivers are not expensive.
What i have found is that it is the lamps that used to be always available at 350mA or greater now they go as low as 200mA, so when you are trying to power a number of lights at 200mA this can mean an oversized driver i.e. a 100W driver is only a 100W driver at 500mA becoming a 30W driver at 200mA... lol
You can probably tell i am learning my way through how to replace drivers that have either expired or the lamp types have changed.
 
Even sadder is the demise of Lucian who tried to help on the first page.
Sorry to here. May he rest in peace.

How are these lights controlled ?
Do they dim or are they fixed output?
Do you turn them on with a simple switch?

Reason for asking is that they do appear to be using quite complex drivers for simply on/off
Timed through MBS, with override switch, which is the main method of operation. I have not seen any dimming controls.

The data sheet recommends paring them with Optotronic drivers, Also mentioned was with max current of 1050ma so i guess the 700ma would be fine.

I have ordered one of these to test, will need another 7. I Plan to program them using the NFC and www.tuner4tronic.com.

I opened a third lamp out of curiosity, and it has a different led set and is wired direct with 5 cores with no resistor too, any thoughts?
 

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