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We are trying to replace two "blown" capacitors on a seven-year-old computer video card.

The capacitors appear identical and state, amongst other things, 6.3V/1500uF.

When we use that information the RS Components website, there are 24 results.

Can you help us find the correct one?

P.S. I would post a link to the results page of the RS Components website, but this forum does not allow links to be posted until I have 6+ posts on here. I also have an image of one of the capacitors, but again, the forum won't let me link to it.
 
Ohhhhh ............ that was below the belt !! ;)

got hairs there as well. mate. wouldn't have known it back in july when they cut into the femoralm arteries. goolies like a gorilla. black as coal.
 
OK, found the cap in an old datasheet, looks like the manufacturer has dropped the product. Cap was specially developed for PC boards and the like.
Supplier is United Chemi-com, you could contact them for their direct replacement or take a punt with the panasonic FM one i listed at Farnell.
 
Mustard,

The usual reason for an electrolytic capacitor bursting like this is because it has been running quite hot. The heat is not generated by the capacitor itself, just the ambient temperature around it.

For that reason I would suggest you replace them with higher temperature versions, that are designed to live longer and happier lives in higher ambient temperatures. So the 105C rated one:

Buy Aluminium Capacitors Al Electrolytic Cap 105C 6.3V 1500uF Panasonic EEUFM0J152 online from RS for next day delivery.

would be my recommendation - a few pence more expensive, but should last longer.

Also - if there's any other electrolytic caps on the board consider replacing those as well - for a few quid it's worth doing a bombing raid on the all the caps, and the board will be as good as new.
 
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There were shed-loads of caps that failed a number of years ago - some bods stole the formula for the electrolyte from the company they worked for and set up their own. But there were errors in the formula, so they failed prematurely. Google will probably find all the details.

As already mentioned, you need a hot iron as these caps are usually connected to the copper power and ground planes, so they suck a lot of heat.
 
This is common fault of g force cards, replace 5mm pitch cap with higher voltage but same 5mm pitch spacing, suggest 10-12v. The should only be one cap gone, and the top of it should have raised up or split maked on board c27 i think
 
Just re cap....(good pun) change for higher working voltage, as you can see the cap is lager but will work better.

[ElectriciansForums.net] Trying to replace capacitor - which one do I choose?
 
Just re cap....(good pun) change for higher working voltage, as you can see the cap is lager but will work better.

In what respect will having a thicker dialectric provide an unneeded higher breakdown voltage make it "work better"?

Do you also advocate using a 45Amp pull cord switches for a 9W CFL light will "work better"?
:24:
 

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