Trying to replace capacitor - which one do I choose?

[King Mustard]

We are trying to replace two "blown" capacitors on a seven-year-old computer video card.

The capacitors appear identical and state, amongst other things, 6.3V/1500uF.

When we use that information the RS Components website, there are 24 results.

Can you help us find the correct one?

P.S. I would post a link to the results page of the RS Components website, but this forum does not allow links to be posted until I have 6+ posts on here. I also have an image of one of the capacitors, but again, the forum won't let me link to it.

 

[DJ Ovengloves]

Make sure you use a decent soldering iron to replace - it needs to be very hot to prevent damaging the replacement so it melts the solder quickly and prevents excessive heat going into the new capacitor (counter intuitive I know that to prevent heat damage you need something very hot)

Done, got my 6 posts

Also, a link to the 24 results that have confused me: Click Me

 

[DJ Ovengloves]

Don't worry, it must have been more annoying for the late and great Patrick Moore getting questions about star-signs rising in Aquarius!

Oh, I thought it was all related.

Sorry guys :/

 

[plugsandsparks]

Yep as tel says it eletrolytic.
Why RS for a couple of caps, postage will be a bummer

 

[plugsandsparks]

There are only 7 out of the 24, that are close to the physical. Suggest look at each one and check the physical size against yours ( so you can get it into the board). You may also be able to match manufacturer.
You can also try digi-key as a reference to get compatible components as apart from the actual value, i.e. voltage and uF value you need to get the right tolerance and physical form factor.
Its all there on the RS site - thats why its such a good resource tool.

Oh - if in doubt get the highest (most expesnive) tolerance so it stays at 1500uF across a wide temp range

 

[King Mustard]

There are only 7 out of the 24, that are close to the physical. Suggest look at each one and check the physical size against yours ( so you can get it into the board). You may also be able to match manufacturer.
You can also try digi-key as a reference to get compatible components as apart from the actual value, i.e. voltage and uF value you need to get the right tolerance and physical form factor.
Its all there on the RS site - thats why its such a good resource tool.

Oh - if in doubt get the highest (most expesnive) tolerance so it stays at 1500uF across a wide temp range

I just checked what else is on the capacitor:

• KZJ
• M(105C)
• 4 (2)
• OU

All 6 that look the same are all 105C, are all radial, and all have a ±20% tolerance. However, it also doesn't help me determine which of the 6 to go for

1. £0.33, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current, 4 μA leakage current
2. £0.40, 8x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 3.5 mm lead pitch, 1220mA ripple current
3. £0.54, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 3000h lifetime, 1220 mA ripple current, 3 μA leakage current
4. £0.57, 12.5x15 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 1205 mA ripple current, 3 μA leakage current
5. £0.58, 10x20 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 5000h lifetime, 2180 mA ripple current
6. £0.60, 10x16 mm, 0.6 mm lead diameter, 5 mm lead pitch, 4000h lifetime, 2140 mA ripple current

 

[telectrix]

and use a decent iron and solder sucker to get the old ones out. be careful not to damage the copper track. basically, any 1500mfd electrolytic with the same or slightly higher volt rating will do. the lead spacing means that it will fit straight in without bending the leads.

 

[Geordie Spark]

my electronic knowledge is a bit out of date, ever since them new -fangled transistor thingies replaced the good old thermionic valve. LOL. not done much lately.

I remember when the pinnacle of miniaturization was the Mullard OC70 transistor - you could fit 12 of them into a sewing thimble.

 

[King Mustard]

and use a decent iron and solder sucker to get the old ones out. be careful not to damage the copper track. basically, any 1500mfd electrolytic with the same or slightly higher volt rating will do. the lead spacing means that it will fit straight in without bending the leads.

They're all electrolytic.

Thank you for the help, everyone! We really appreciate it!

 

[telectrix]

but if this board is 7 yeqars old and caps have blown, is it worth the effort? what else is liable to be goosed due to old age?

 

[Geordie Spark]

but if this board is 7 yeqars old and caps have blown, is it worth the effort? what else is liable to be goosed due to old age?

Aye .... it's a bit like you & me Tel

 

[telectrix]

Aye .... it's a bit like you & me Tel

YEAH. but at least i've still got hair. LOL.

 

[Geordie Spark]

YEAH. but at least i've still got hair. LOL.

Ohhhhh ............ that was below the belt !!

 

[plugsandsparks]

KZJ are getting a bad rep on the badcaps forum, failing in two years from heat apparently. Cannot get a reference check from digi-key yet using what you have provided, will have another look.

 

[King Mustard]

but if this board is 7 yeqars old and caps have blown, is it worth the effort? what else is liable to be goosed due to old age?

This is a PCI-E-based NVIDIA GeForce 6600 video card from 2004.

The cheapest replacement PCI-E video card from Ebuyer is £25, so I thought that we may as well try and fix this one for much cheaper. If it doesn't work, we'll get the replacement card

My uncle only uses the system for basic Web browsing.

 

[Marvo]

You need to measure the distance between the leads on the old capacitor, this is the 'lead pitch' referred to in the options you stated. Obviously pick one with the same pitch, also leave a small air gap below your new capacitor when you solder it onto the board, a milimeter or 2 will suffice, it helps with cooling and extends the lifespan of the component.