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We are trying to replace two "blown" capacitors on a seven-year-old computer video card.

The capacitors appear identical and state, amongst other things, 6.3V/1500uF.

When we use that information the RS Components website, there are 24 results.

Can you help us find the correct one?

P.S. I would post a link to the results page of the RS Components website, but this forum does not allow links to be posted until I have 6+ posts on here. I also have an image of one of the capacitors, but again, the forum won't let me link to it.
 
In what respect will having a thicker dialectric provide an unneeded higher breakdown voltage make it "work better"?

Do you also advocate using a 45Amp pull cord switches for a 9W CFL light will "work better"?
:24:

The working voltage of 5v was close to the knuckle on these cards a yes a higher voltage cap will last out longer, as to a 45amp switch on a 9watt lamp using 0.04 amps.....the switch contacts should last alife time.....!
 
The working voltage of 5v was close to the knuckle on these cards a yes a higher voltage cap will last out longer, as to a 45amp switch on a 9watt lamp using 0.04 amps.....the switch contacts should last alife time.....!

When capacitors fail due to breakdown of the dialectric (i.e insufficient voltage rating), which is very rare, they usually expire with a "one gun salute" leaving little evidence behind that they ever existed:

Capacitor explosion from excessive voltage - YouTube

I particularly like the one at 52 seconds in, which seems to have been manufactured using Cemtex as its dialectric :earmuffs:

The picture that the OP posted showing a classic bulged top is a sign it has dried up, and in effect gone open circuit. The reason for them drying out is invariably due to them living in a constantly hot environment:

Capacitor plague - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That is why I suggested he replace it with one of the same voltage and capacity, but a higher operating temperature. I concede it will do absolutely no harm to have a capacitor with a higher voltage rating, but it will be of no benefit to performance or longevity either.
 
Correct, and the symtom of most caps is usually the safety scored top, which splits or as your explenation bulges, this is the common fault of the G force card, higher temp is another good idea
 
There were shed-loads of caps that failed a number of years ago - some bods stole the formula for the electrolyte from the company they worked for and set up their own. But there were errors in the formula, so they failed prematurely. Google will probably find all the details.

As already mentioned, you need a hot iron as these caps are usually connected to the copper power and ground planes, so they suck a lot of heat.

You will find that the PCB will almost certainly be "multi layer" and even if you get the old ones out the holes will ge clogged uf with solder that can be a pain to remove. One easy way to replace the parts, although not very pretty, is to pull the body of the cap off the two legs ( just grasp and pull ) . then solder the new component to the wire stumps.
As i aid not pretty!!! but effective.
 
Why its a 5 minute job, common fault and one expensive graphics card...?????

Its old, Its a massive hassle, its 7 years old &he only use's it for web browsing. ANY pci-e card would do the same job, and you can buy em off ebay for next to nout, Christ ive one in a draw he can have if a tenners to much!
 

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