I have found open cpc's where some one has drilled direct center of the twin and earth, put a rawl plug in and there you go.
Good luck in finding the break.
Have you donre a insulation resistance test ?
Are the sockets RCD protected as it may be a neutral to earth fault helping those reading
Basic systems are so easy if you read the install drawings right.
Only gets more complicated when you need a laptop to programme systems but the makers of systems will do free or very cheap training days.
Electric UFH heating stats come with floor temp sensor so that when the stat is placed outside of the room the stat can be programmed to read the floor temp instead of the air temp
In Bedford we have Service and Sales on Elms farm industrial estate, they repair appliances but also sell spares and 99% of the time have the element i need in stock
I remember when i was around 7 years old and found one of those big yellow screw drivers, through it up in the air and kept walking......came down on my head and a hospital visit...................my own fault but hated them since
I would bin it
I use makita and i melt the inner of mine even before a year is up (the insides do not like prolonged use and the heat melts the plastic)
I bin mine (although they are in warranty )as i know i abuse them.
I insist on drilling the holes before skimming or i am not liable for making good later (the plasterers i use do not mind the holes being about but some the builders use do)
Our LABC are starting to crack down on holes in the celotex above downlights to stop cold spot and are requiring at least...
I offer many trade services, some times i have the time to do tiling, plumbing etc but my main job is electrics. I do not fit gas boilers or gas hobs but after 30 years in the trade i can and do give clients a good job on all my services i quote for.
If i am stacked out i get other trades to...
I have never come across any make that says its ok (but only just started reading said paper work that comes with them!)
I either do not test between L-N or just remove socket to carry out full testing
Mark
You can get some electric hobs where you can set them to either 13amp, 16 amps, 20amps etc (some of the high end NEFF induction hobs do this)
If your existing oven has its own 32amp supply this may be possible to add the hob to that circuit.
Get a local sparks to advise and quote
I personally would split the tails and use a HRC switch fuse at consumer end with swa cable to a rotary isolator at the kiln end
Note they do make 63 amp sockets!
I think the voltage required is AC but that existing door bell output is DC.
I am sure you need to purchase the extender chimer and also keep your battery charged at the door end.
get the wifi extender chime and a 2nd battery
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