Good luck :eek:
You should be able to hire one from any decent hire station, they will get it in for you though. Some wholesalers are selling cheapo versions now though if you think you might need one a few times.
PS. the repair kits for the heat-mats are usually crap, we've never found a...
Just to clarify things, it is the mcb that is tripping and not an rcd isn't it?
I know you said you'd changed the mcb but have you tried swapping the mcb's for each heater with eachother?
Are they the same size of storage heater? i.e. 3kW etc
How about taking the heater elements out of it and...
Hello Mohammed, the switch that you have run from has only got a permanent live connection and a switched live connection. So there isn't a neutral connection for you to use. The neutral for the lights that work already from this switch, goes straight to the light fitting and doesn't pass...
When you drill down try to skim the face of the brick and you should be able to get it from below as the plaster is only down to skirting level. If the skirting is high and the brick is soft, sometimes the drill will creep into the brickwork so that you cant see it below, this is where a bent...
It's worth mentioning though just to clarify as some people on here may just assume that pop rivets are ok to use in place of screws/ nuts+bolts. I'm fairly sure that they shouldn't be relied upon for earthing purposes as they cannot be tightened and some alloys are not very good conductors.
I thought there were two tick boxes on the cert. One for volt drop and one for phase rotation?
I haven't got one in front of me at the moment but i'm sure there is.
Volt drop could be measured but would be inaccurate for the reasons you state and if the load was variable, but it could be...
I agree with the basket option instead of tray asthis can be formed to follow any curve. As for the trunking it depends on the overall size of the room. If it is a tight curve you are better off with lots of self-cut joints, as many as you fancy really. If the room is reasonably large with a...
You can add to the limitations box that you have done this to make it perfectly clear - "hoist circuits tested to final isolator only"
In the words of the great meerkat - "simples"
The only time it might not work is if the sensor isn't relay output and is solid state or transister output, but these are really rare. I looked up the challenger and they are quoting 1KW output so i doubt it would be either of these.
shouldn't do, most sensors are relay output, so it would be just like having two light switches in parallel. What would a capacitor do then? and where are they saying to add it?
Have you tried them individually yet?
you fitted that quick! it should work fine, check your connections just to be sure.
Try taking one sensor out of circuit and test each one seperately first, then try the other one on its own, then lastly put then both back on together. This should show if the problem is with one or other sensor...
Any external pir will do, no slave needed, both sensors just pick up movement and switch a 'live' onto the switched live conductor. The cabling just 'daisy chains' from the feed to the first sensor to the first light, second light, third light and on to the second sensor. At the feed end you...
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