I just looked at the Verso Electrical website, having never heard of them. I noticed their IP66 2-gang enclosure looked to have come from the same moulding for a Hager Sollysta IP66 2-gang socket I happen to have sitting here.
A very good summary from GBDamo.
I did the heat pump online course from STIEBEL ELTRON earlier in the year, mainly for my own interest (I also completed the online tests for the CPD certificate). If you are considering a heat pump and have the time, I'd recommend doing one of these (free)...
Not totally clear what cables are accesible in the loft, but ...
Can you not just feed a permanent L & N from the switch to each of lights 2 and 3.
Then use the two cables from switch 2 as switch drops i.e. to interrtupt the L to each of lights 2 & 3.
Or am I missing something?
If I had a heating programmer that routinely failed, I'd have a new spare in the cupboard, ready to swap it next time it failed.
But no, wait, on second thoughts, I'd have switched to another brand by now - they use a standard backplate and should be a simple swap.
I've changed a meter box with a cut-out in: the DNO turned up, disconnected the supply cable (taped a boot over the end and left if flapping about), then sat and watched while I changed the box, then reconnected the cable in the new box. They waited till I arrived to start disconnecting. I did...
As well as the correct type of MCB, I'd ask for a replacement undamaged cover to be supplied!
Out of interest, do you have the EICR that was carried out? It might be interesting to see (you can redact the personal details incl. those of the "electrician"'s).
A standard plasterboard ceiling should take a minute or two at most and not be that difficult, so long as there are still some teeth left on the holesaw!
So I'd also wonder if there is something in the way - joist, noggin, steel, water tank ... ? I'd have drilled a 6mm pilot hole and checked in...
You don't mention exactly what cleaning, but I'm suspecting it perhaps incudes the front panel buttons, and some cleaning fluid has entered round the buttons and is effectively shorting one or more of them out. Given the potential danger, as James says, I'd not be using it again.
If I click on the "Please help the forum out by replying to UNANSWERED THREADS by clicking here.", for the last couple of days it is infested with lots of plumbing and tiling posts, so much so that it's hard to spot unanswered electrical ones! The link used to be just electrical unanswered posts.
It looks like your old thermostat is just wired with a L & Calling for Heat, i.e. no N connection.
Your new thermostat appears to need a N connection that you don't have.
Curiously, on another forum, someone with a similar user name asked exactly the same question last week, perhaps you have seen the replies? It really does look like a course question, for which we like you to attempt the answer first!
Not RCBOs, but Hager AFDDs - which include an RCBO - indicate why it has tripped:
"The multicoloured LED display will flash in a different sequence of colours to identify the fault. With the ability to identify 8 statuses, the device will instantly detect if a Series Arc, Parallel Arc...
Re consumer units, I'd never heard of Verso until looking it up just now, and I gave up on MK some while ago. Fusebox is quite popular for domestic work, they are also now doing some TPN boards. Hager if I want a premium brand.
Personally I'd want to see online prices that were reasonable, and...
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