If local building control will accept copies of quals and test sheets as compliance with Part P then it will come back and bite them on the ar*e, as it's no different to a cowboy copying someones quals and test sheets. I appreciate there are no cowboys here.
Had my ELECSA assessment yesterday and passed. The assessor mentioned it was preferable to put the smoke alarms on a lighting circuit. Thing is, in the building regs Document B 1.19 about power supplies(in brief) it says can be supplied either direct from the board or from a lighting circuit...
There is a very useful table on the Elecsa Website that gives good guidance on what is notifiable. Here's a link to it http://www.elecsa.co.uk/downloads/TableofNotifiableWork.pdf
Hi, from what I can understand, the way it was wired when you moved in is as follows (correct me if I'm wrong) :
Hallway - 2 Gang Switch. 1 Switch for Hall Light over stairs, 1 switch for Landing (Wall Lights)
Landing - 2 Gang Switch. 1 Switch for Landing (Wall Lights), 1 Switch for Landing...
Not sure if I've understood the situation correctly. I personally would not crimp a short wire in with other wires. I would crimp an extending wire onto the short wire and then just connect the extending wire and the others into the terminal. That way if you need to disconnect or modify any of...
Apart from the rating of the cooker. It's annoying to have to switch the ring off to change the cooker in the future. Added to which if the cable to the cooker is buried, if there is ever no cooker, there is a potential for an exposed cable to go live when the ring is on.
Can't see a problem with extending the lamp holder wires as long as it's not an excessive length as you might get voltage drop which could lead to the Tube or Ballast overheating and cutting out. You will probably invalidate any guarantee by modifying the wiring, but them you've probably already...
For safeties sake, running the cable through 6 inch high posts and putting kick boards in front is a good way to do this. That way if you or a future occupier have a dog they won't bite into the cable. Plus it's unlikey to get moved.
Hi,
I think I know the answer to this question but I'm gonna ask it anway.
Can a small ROBIN tester (for example the KTS 1610) be used for measuring Ze? I understand that there is more current available before a main switch, but we're measuring impedance. Just asking the question as with a...
Personally, I'd put the Fused spur next to the existing socket, so that the extractor hood can be isolated easily if needed. I'd use either a 13amp socket and plug or a flex outlet plate for the connection to the hood cable. Junction boxes should be put behind things.
I just see it as lazy. If the single 2.5mm T&E for the socket below goes back to the board it ought to either be on a separate breaker or have two pieces of 2.5mm T & E and be part of the ring.
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