Hi All I would be interested to hear your opinions on this situation:
It's a property which used to have the electricity meter in the middle of the house, the consumer unit is still there and there is still a cut out with a 100A fuse in it, a neutral earth block and a small label that says it...
I would change them to GU10's, even if the LED MR16's work sometimes you will find that unless you change the transformer to a LED driver they flicker.
Can anyone tell me if it is legitimate to install cables into a chase in a lath & plaster ceiling and then plaster over? The reason I'm asking is because I have been asked to quote for replacement of a vermin damaged lighting circuit which is above a lath & plaster ceiling and there is no access...
The standard choc block type connector is a pain to loop a couple of 1.5mm T & E cables into whilst ensuring no brown or blue insulation is showing outside of the connector. Downlighters such as the JCC have a very easy 6 terminal push fit connector which takes seconds to conect into.
Just had a salesperson from Local Traders try and sign me up even though I am already (unfortunately)signed up with them til the end of the year. Obviously I told them what a complete waste of time and money they were. Just shows they don't know their ar*e from their elbow.
Chris, as I said in my post "assuming this underfloor heating is just one zone". If the OP has a specific system which he would like a wiring diag for I would be happy to help. I have designed and installed many UFH systems some with simple controls as I described and others with more complex...
The easiest way of wiring in the UFH is just to treat it as a third zone in the heating. So assuming this underfloor heating is just one zone you would take a live (and poss a neutral) to a programmable room stat, take the switched live (and neutral) back to a 2 port zone valve; this operates...
It's simple really, the unvented cylinders come as a package with everything you need so if you use all the bits and everything is installed correctly all should be well. For the majority of packages you would get one thermostat called a dual stat which is in fact a combined high limit stat and...
You don't need 3 zone valves. You just need to wire the hot water tank zone valve supply in series with the tank stat. You only need a safety zone valve if you are using a Y plan system (i.e a mid position valve or three port valve), in this case the 2 port zone valve is connected in the primary...
See if you can get hold of the manufacturers instructions; they may be available on line. If that doesn't help try asking this question on the Plumbers Forum.
Hi, does anyone know if there is an approved method of abandoning cables in walls?
I have a customer who wants wall lights in her living room disconnected, she wants the cables buried in the wall and plastered over so she can decorate over. I can obviously disconnect the live from the switch...
Just s a follow up to this. I changed the CU today and there is a fault on the downstairs lighting circuit N - E is 1.1 ohms, L - E and L - N is clear. So I've got a bit of fault finding to do tomorrow.
It's a TNCS system. I do know for sure that this particular CPC is not earthed it's about 4 M ohms to earth. It's just the one switch/CPC, everything else is fine.
Hi All,
I have just been checking out an installation in a 1970's house in prep for a CU change tomorrow, I noticed in one of the light switches the CPC has 180 volts to earth and 60 volts to live on it, obviously it is not earthed. Anyone any ideas what could cause this? Cheers
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