Hi Alan, I would highly recommend the evolution range of mitre saws, have used one to skirt my house, fit a kitchen, cut unistrut, threaded rod and dado trunking - great all rounder and not expensive.
Sam
Don’t worry about the service fuse I haven’t had it mentioned on an assessment.
I would get the notification for the job done before the assessment though as it’s something they like to check.
I got marked down for notifications as the assessor couldn’t check mine on his tablet I had no WiFi as...
I keep telling people installing LEDs is a dark art but no one believes me! Lol
I have fitted quite a few enlites on b curve breakers and not had a problem.
But got caught out once by 3 JCC under unit lights that I had to put on a C10 to stop it tripping.
I recently contacted JCC about some LED...
Hager for me!
I personally like the square knock outs as they marry up with the larger sizes of trunking.
Also the rear entry pattress is a great idea, shame they don't include it.
As strima says the Norwegian one is the best for when they get really bad.
I use the okeefs one for day to day tho,
well prob remember to put it on once a week!
Yea as Lee says. Unbind and rebind and do a signal check first thing to do.
There pretty good but there’s a few things that might upset it like large metal objects(boiler) too close to prog or stat, foil backed plasterboard celotex etc. blocking signal
Had absolute murder with a Honeywell...
Can anyone recommend some trimless plaster in downlights please.
Don't want to spend more than £30 a fitting ideally.
The aurora M10 ones look good but I have no experience of fitting them
Cheers
Sam
The armeg set are a good alternative as they are half the price of the super rods.
I have yet to snap one and they don’t leave fibreglass splinters in your hands like the cheap blue sets!
There's no way he could know if they were torqued up to manufactures spec doing it by hand. It's completely hypocritical for them to tell me to use a torque driver then for him to check them manually.
As for experience - I've been doing this for nearly 20 years if I haven't got the 'feel' by...
I had used a torque driver on one of my assessment jobs, all CU terminals torqued to manufacturers spec (hager)
The scheme inspector comes along and checks all my CU terminals with a standard screwdriver?
How does that work? Is he better at assessing manually applied torque than me?
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