20amp or 13amp switches??

[Kev2632]

Hello, I'm just having a debate with one o my fellow work colleagues, when you go to fit out a kitchen do you use 13amp or 20 amp switches for your fixed appliances e.g fridges, freezers, washin machines etc ?

 

[Dan23584]

I think that the 20A grid switch system is good when there are quite a few appliances, but if you only have a couple of them then a couple of 13A FCU.

 

[Kev2632]

is there any reason why some folk have 13amp FCU controlling the fixed appliances rather than 20amp Switches?

 

[telectrix]

because some sparks don't understand discrimination.

 

[1shortcircuit]

because some sparks don't understand discrimination.

Or the plug has been removed and fitted into a flex outlet with a 13amp fcu above perhaps?

 

[telectrix]

ideal for maintenance when the appliance goes wrong. NOT.

 

[1shortcircuit]

ideal for maintenance when the appliance goes wrong. NOT.

Sounds interesting? Why is this then?

Surely if the power is supplied via a fcu above then safe isolation can be provided to the flex outlet below and therefore maintenace work carried out safely if required?

I'm ready to learn something new today

:thumbsup

 

[keniff]

We normally use a fcu above work top if to a flex outlet below, or a 20amp switch if its a unswitched plug socket below as the fuse in the plug is there, most appliances say they need the fuse what ever the size may be, but if you cut the plug off this can void the warranty :s

 

[1shortcircuit]

We normally use a fcu above work top if to a flex outlet below, or a 20amp switch if its a unswitched plug socket below as the fuse in the plug is there, most appliances say they need the fuse what ever the size may be, but if you cut the plug off this can void the warranty :s

This has been discussed in greater depth in another thread. Going back a while now so not sure that I'll be able to find it.

Thinking about the point Tel made about it not being good for maintainence purposes I guess this is because the appliance cannot just be unplugged and dragged out where work can be done in plenty of space.

Having the appliance hard wired would mean that this would have to be disconnected which is more aggro than simply pulling a plug?

I must admit, the 20a switch and unswitched socket does seem like a very worthwhile consideration now if an installation is at the design stage

Can these be locked off with ease? Actually, scrap that! It wouldn't need locking off would it because the switch will be turned off just whilst the appliance is not plugged into it lol

:thumbsup

 

[Engineer54]

We normally use a fcu above work top if to a flex outlet below, or a 20amp switch if its a unswitched plug socket below as the fuse in the plug is there, most appliances say they need the fuse what ever the size may be, but if you cut the plug off this can void the warranty :s

Correction here, ....You will NOT void any warranty by cutting the moulded plug off an appliance lead!! This has been verified by other members here that have legal members in their families that have confirmed this...

It's just one more of these myths that abound us in this industry, that is kept going by scaremongers that still believe in these myths...

 

[Glen Stimson]

iv'e used both, in fact sometimes iv'e fitted a 20A and unswitched socket but the appliance sticks out so iv'e had to change it to a 13A with flex outlet cos the appliance sits back further.

 

[Darkwood]

Correction here, ....You will NOT void any warranty by cutting the moulded plug off an appliance lead!! This has been verified by other members here that have legal members in their families that have confirmed this...

It's just one more of these myths that abound us in this industry, that is kept going by scaremongers that still believe in these myths...

Only true to a point... yes legally it cant void the warranty but if a fault occurs say to the appliance timer board; and a replaced plug top or spur connection is suspect thus giving voltage spikes is brought into a warranty argument then its harder to prove it wasnt the cause and retain the warranty as youll be asked to do so, if the moulded plug is left on and say a loose connection in the back of the socket caused the fault then its for them to prove which isnt financially worth their while hence they will do the neccesary replacement or repairs.

 

[Engineer54]

???? What the hell is that got to do with chopping a moulded plug top off?? I can understand if you make a cock-up of the connections, but not to the fact of connecting the appliance to FCU!!

 

[SimpleSimon]

iv'e used both, in fact sometimes iv'e fitted a 20A and unswitched socket but the appliance sticks out so iv'e had to change it to a 13A with flex outlet cos the appliance sits back further.

On going job we do in kitchens has a buikding inspector come out to sign the work off. This guy wants 13a FCU switches on the work surface with an appliance plugged into an unswitched socket underneath. No thought for fuse discrimination, its how he wants it and i cant be bothered to explain it to him :banghead:

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[Dan23584]

The advantage of using 20A switches with 1g unswitched s/o's is that you do not need to be there when the kitchen fitter (or whoever) fits the appliance, they can just plug it in.

Although we all know that if flex outlets where used they would connect them anyway.