3 plate method | on ElectriciansForums

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peteelecs

While putting up new light fitting I have found that the 3 plate method normally in the ceiling rose was actually done inside the switch is this legal?
 
Yep.........

Saves having a load of cables behind light fittings, and also is the only way if downlights are being installed.
 
I prefer them at switches, easier testing for a start an like jason said, you have'nt got loads of wires at the fitting so easier to fit any light fitting
 
Nothing, provided they are maintenance free, but i would still run the circuit to the switch, especially if the client is having d/l or is undecided on what fitting they are having.

Hmmm, I dont see any reason why you cant 3-plate at a downlight, if they are low voltage they will require a junction box anyway. They dont need to be maintenance free as the junction boxes are accessible by dropping the light fitting.
 
Indeed, im not saying you cant.

I prefer to do it that way, just for my benefit really.

Totally agree with you Jason. I would rather be connecting 3 or 4 cables at a light switch than standing on a ladder working above my head connecting a junction box!

The only downside that I find with looping in at the switch is that If you are using MK fittings as I do then their bloody light switches have really poor terminals if you ever need to connect more than 2 conductors into one of the contacts.
 
The only downside that I find with looping in at the switch is that If you are using MK fittings as I do then their bloody light switches have really poor terminals if you ever need to connect more than 2 conductors into one of the contacts.

I fix a terminal block to the back of the box or use Wago's. Take the loop in/out ,neutral and cpc into the terminal block (or Wago's). Then take a permanent live from the block to the terminal of the switch cpc to backbox and plate (if metal)- saves having to try and jam 3 conductors into a terminal.:D

Hi If u are using the old style round j/b how do you clamp cables against straining.

You can't. Best off using theseAshley J501 16 Amp Downlighter Junction Box
Then you will comply with the regs.
 
Second that saveloy. Wago's and a choc box makes easy work of downlighters.

To the OP, looping to the switches saves a lot of time when wiring and testing! Wouldnt say its the ONLY way tho. Use a combination of the two as it makes future additions easier having a permanent live and neutral in differnt locations other than the loft and under a floorboard.
 
I cannot recall anything in the regs to suggest other wise . Although I am always a little dubious about running the neutral in a connector inside the switch box . I wonder if perhaps a manufacturer could create a 5amp plate switch with a neutral link specifically for the the purpose of wiring behind a switch?
 
I once had a job 'checked out' by the powers that be...because of neutrals in switch box, 3-gang grid switches...anyhow I let them get on with it, the 'master spark' confirmed 240v L&E and 240 L&N ...therfore it was indeed a neutral within the switch box. (I had fun watching the check)

So they asked why I had a neutral,

Err, if you look closely it is double pole switch controlling a 5amp socket for chandelier lighting on stairs....Oh, I'll speak with my engineer.

Engineer says he thought it was an intermediate switch..

I say, Mr xxxx you need a new engineer. I ain't ever heard of neutral connected at an intermediate switch.
Deep joy, got loads of work thereafer. The guy was a fraud and didn't like that I got part of the installation, namely the effects lightig...
 

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