32mm Holesaw in Metal Consumer Unit knock out - balls up! | Page 3 | on ElectriciansForums

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I have not yet fitted a metal domestic board yet, and have to say I am not looking forward to it, I can see them just being awkward and problematic.
 

i only ever use a cone / step drill when drilling a hole in metal as I know I can control it quite well, I would recommend using one certainly, may not be the quickest method, but they don't skid about and you feel a bit safer / more confident about know its not too big, you can check the size as you go. Plus it gives you time to think about what size you are going to whilst its drilling.
 
I have not yet fitted a metal domestic board yet, and have to say I am not looking forward to it, I can see them just being awkward and problematic.

Thought that before I started fitting them but they're actually a lot nicer to fit than the old insulated ones. Take a bit longer getting it on the wall and fireproof etc but it looks better and is so much nicer to work with.
 

Not at the price the "CEF random number generator" has popped up!


And there's always this:
[ElectriciansForums.net] 32mm Holesaw in Metal Consumer Unit knock out - balls up!
Yep, used them plenty in my "making XLR patch panels" days... :) I'd actually forgotten they existed... so cheers! :)
 
Yes I know! :angry: BUT it shows that they are available up to & beyond 32mm ....... I thought the biggest was 22mm.

That said, it's not something that you use all day everyday so for the occasional use it could ok PROVIDED you keep the speed (RPMs) down & use plenty of lubricant.


And there's always this:
[ElectriciansForums.net] 32mm Holesaw in Metal Consumer Unit knock out - balls up!
you can get 51mm step cutters now.

i only had to drill two holes but the ****e stocked by cef struggled.

dart holesaws are awful, ive got one of there arbors that is only any use without a pilot bit XD
 
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Not a bad idea at all. I wander whether the knock out would still hold firm though. Malcolm's idea should allow for the hole to be drilled neatly. Silly design by the manufacturers, they should have a couple of different options for the actual enclosure. Maybe they should do a bit of market research, asking sparks their views..

I emailed Hager about this exact problem over 6 months ago. Never heard anything back. I too had to drill out the board and there's little tolerance/ room for error. The old metal hager boards with the plastic fronts had 20 and 25mm round knockouts. Personally if I need to secure SWA now I'll choose another make of board instead.
 
I emailed Hager about this exact problem over 6 months ago. Never heard anything back. I too had to drill out the board and there's little tolerance/ room for error. The old metal hager boards with the plastic fronts had 20 and 25mm round knockouts. Personally if I need to secure SWA now I'll choose another make of board instead.

I was doing a 5 way "garage" type install last week - so went into a wholesaler and asked to see the metal box and looked at the knock outs before I parted with my money! I used the Wylex unit - 3 x 20mm knockouts and I needed 3!
 
Not at the price the "CEF random number generator" has popped up!



Yep, used them plenty in my "making XLR patch panels" days... :) I'd actually forgotten they existed... so cheers! :)

Aye!!! ...... that's exactly what I used them for!!! ...... Patch Panels & Stage Boxes! 20mm and 25mm I think.


Edit: Thinking about it there was only one thing better than those punches and that was an Apprentice with a Fly Press. :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Glanded a Hager sub board today. Managed to bring tails through nicely on the LHS of the board, and avoid the knockout.

[ElectriciansForums.net] 32mm Holesaw in Metal Consumer Unit knock out - balls up!

[ElectriciansForums.net] 32mm Holesaw in Metal Consumer Unit knock out - balls up!
 

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