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Hi all we are looking at replacing our 14 year old zanussi single oven which is only 2.15 kw.
Some of the ovens we have looked at are rated over 3kw so need to be 16amp.
Is it possible to tell if our wiring will be able to cope with an oven over 3kw just by looking when i pull the old oven out.
Also what work would be required to enable a 3kw oven to be fitted.
thanks
 
what he said^^^^^.if you have a dedicated cooker isolator like this:
[ElectriciansForums.net] advice for fitting new electric oven

with or without a socket outlet, on a 32A MCB ( as labelled in your pic of the CU), you're good to go up to 15kW hob and oven combined. the actual connections will be behind or to one side of the oven via a cooker connection unit. like so:
[ElectriciansForums.net] advice for fitting new electric oven

[ElectriciansForums.net] advice for fitting new electric oven


[ElectriciansForums.net] advice for fitting new electric oven
 
as i thought. you should have no problems there.
Thanks that's good news i didn't want to order a higher rated one and find out it couldn't be fitted when it got delivered but also didn't want to order the lower kw one only to be told i could have had the higher rated one after all.
Will i be able to wire it in myself or would it be wise to get pay the extra £90 for fitting(eek)
 
At a well-educated guess, you should have a minimum cable of 6.0mm
once you take the old oven out you should be able to post a picture of outlets behind as there are several different ways the existing could be done.
 
most electricians would charge around £50 -£55 for that. it's only an hour's work including a quick test to prove the circuit healthy. for DIY you just isolate ( preferably at the consumer unit) and use the existing cables by dissing at the oven and hob themselves and just connecting into the new appliance/s. however, some of these newer appliances are a bitch to connect the terminals, so for the sake of the £50 i'd get a professional in. ( but don't let some muppet try and talk you int rewiring with 10mm cable, as some of the newer generation of sparks would advise).
 
however, some of these newer appliances are a bitch to connect the terminals, so for the sake of the £50 i'd get a professional in.
Agree, had a job just like that before xmas, new cooker and hob, the cooker had the most frustrating termination block on the back, it had a screw, 2 push in clips and another clip that needed to be pushed in and lifted at same time whilst pushing the top as the plastic had flexed and moved at some point. It made it a nightmare. once done you could then reach the prize of 3 screw terminals!
 
Agree, had a job just like that before xmas, new cooker and hob, the cooker had the most frustrating termination block on the back, it had a screw, 2 push in clips and another clip that needed to be pushed in and lifted at same time whilst pushing the top as the plastic had flexed and moved at some point. It made it a nightmare. once done you could then reach the prize of 3 screw terminals!
had same last week. also the kitchen fitter muppets has installed the hob and siliconed it in when there wasn'taflexconnected for the ignition.had to fathom out how to open the cover, then connect flex, lying on back with the oven pulled out.
 

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