Advice needed asap Please.

[Steve00]

Hi Guys,

I've just fitted an Bosch Induction hob and its not working, I have run 6mm cable from CU with a 32amp breaker, I have power to the cooker connection unit, but. . . . once I flick the breaker, my RCD on the CU trips.
I have tested the wiring and the Neg is showing as live also, but only when the hob is connected??

The hob is out the box and i'm now fighting currys for a replacement. Can anyone help shed some light on this problem just so I have some info before tearing into Currys and Bosch.

Many Thanks

 

[ringer]

A couple of points Stevie, from your original post. Firstly you said it was you that ran the 6mm from the CU. Where did the other sparks come in? Secondly, you referred to 'neg' becoming live. Did you mean neutral, and if so how did you measure it if the rcd kept tripping?

 

[Steve00]

A couple of points Stevie, from your original post. Firstly you said it was you that ran the 6mm from the CU. Where did the other sparks come in? Secondly, you referred to 'neg' becoming live. Did you mean neutral, and if so how did you measure it if the rcd kept tripping?

Feel like i'm being interviewed by my boss!!

I ran the cable to the CU and left it rolled up as I was waiting on a new MCB to arrive, my 'spark' was local so I asked him to pop over to test my garage electrics and to sign them off, while he was here he said he'd sort out the CU as I was still finishing off the kitchen. he installed the MCB and left.

I did mean the neutral as referred in my later posts, I tested this with my tester at the cooker connection and as said once the cooker 'switch' was switched on, the RCD tripped and the 'neutral' was also live, also as already said, I started from the beginning and went from there.

 

[mechelec]

mmmmmmmmm at least it is OK now eh

 

[ringer]

What was the sequence of events regarding the RCD tripping and you measuring and finding the neutral was live? If a neutral is disconnected then it may well be substantially higher potential with reference to earth if the circuit is powered up. But how did you establish the neutral was live? What instrument did you use, and what were you measuring it against? I ask all this because what you have said does not make sense, logically speaking. The whole point of an RCD tripping is that it disconnects the supply, and if the neutral is put in the wrong bar, then the rcd will trip instantly. I can not figure out how you have been able to establish that the neutral is live if the rcd trips as soon as you switch it on.

 

[MarkieSparkie]

You and me both confused Ringer. Can't make up my mind if this is just badly explained or a wind-up.

 

[Steve00]

Right. . i'm not a spark, never said I was, I have the basic knowledge of electrics. I haven't come on here to be ripped apart, just for some info & help (which is what I thought forums were for) and yes I may not of explained it correctly, but all the info is here.

My friend who i a spark, wired up the CU, I wired up the hob, when I switched on the hob at the cooker socket, it tripped the RCD on the CU. . got me so far? I always check the live with a volt tester, before and after switching off, when the RCD had tripped the live and the neutral were LIVE, I don't know why and yes my tester was lit up showing there was current to the live and the neutral. . oh and the neutral bar (the side the hob N was connected) in the CU was also showing live. Thats why I came on here as I had no idea and my mate wasn't answering the phone. So as already said, I went back to the start to work out what was going on, I was more worried that the cable I had run through the old ceiling had been damaged which would mean running a new one through a brand new plastered celling. . anyway, I saw that the neutral had been connected to the wrong side at the CU, and again, not being a spark, I still thought this could be the problem, so I moved the N over to the correct bar and its all working fine. So please don't always doubt people using forums. This wasn't a wind up nor am I a loser looking for banter or wind-ups online.

So thank you to those who gave advice and have helped made forums what they were put in place for.

Oh and i've made sure I have spell checked this, in case I get pulled on that also

 

[telectrix]

well,as you say you're not a spark, you should be allowed some leeway with incorrect terminology, and well done for finding the fault.

 

[Guest112]

do you mean you had your voltage detectors held between the neutral and earth at the hob and had 230v and this is how you discovered the neutral was live mate? just curious like

 

[Steve00]

do you mean you had your voltage detectors held between the neutral and earth at the hob and had 230v and this is how you discovered the neutral was live mate? just curious like

All I had was a circuit tester screwdriver, the orange light was enough to tell me there was current. I still cant get my head around it tho, cant see why the N being on the opposite bar, would be showing a L current when the hob was connected and still showing L when the RCD tipped on the CU. . as said, I have a basic understanding of electrics.

 

[malcolmsanford]

All I had was a circuit tester screwdriver, the orange light was enough to tell me there was current. I still cant get my head around it tho, cant see why the N being on the opposite bar, would be showing a L current when the hob was connected and still showing L when the RCD tipped on the CU. . as said, I have a basic understanding of electrics.

\\]

As your asking for questions to be answered here is the first part ......take that tester screwdriver and throw it away unless you can use it as a screwdriver only, never ever rely on it for testing.

What you got was a feed back on the neutral as the neutrals are commoned at the CU and so all the other circuits that are still "on" in the installation will give a small reading back to the hobs neutral

 

[Steve00]

\\]

As your asking for questions to be answered here is the first part ......take that tester screwdriver and throw it away unless you can use it as a screwdriver only, never ever rely on it for testing.

Cheers Mate, what would you recommend?

 

[Steve00]

\\]

What you got was a feed back on the neutral as the neutrals are commoned at the CU and so all the other circuits that are still "on" in the installation will give a small reading back to the hobs neutral

Thank you for clearing that up, as said I only wanted advice on here and didnt expect to be questioned like I was lying or to be shown that I was 'caught out'. Anyway thank you.

 

[malcolmsanford]

Martindale VT12 Voltage & Continuity Tester


Something like this and if you buy it through test-meter you also get a further 5%off.

 

[Steve00]

Martindale VT12 Voltage & Continuity Tester


Something like this and if you buy it through test-meter you also get a further 5%off.

Buying it as we speak. . cheers

 

[ringer]

Stevie, I did not intend to rip you apart or discourage you from using the forums. It's just that what you were saying did not make sense, so I asked some questions. Am glad to hear you got it sorted, and that you are investing in a better test instrument. And hopefully you have learnt something along the way.

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