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@Murdoch - I think your right, one socket was added additionally and an extension from an original socket to the loft socket was added. I'll keep you posted. Would i be right in simply asking for the switch that controls the security light to be troubleshooted. Sounds like i'm stuck with raising the plug socket due to the majority saying that extending it is a bit dodgy?
 
I don’t think raising the socket height is an impossibility.
If cables come from above, easy to shorten.
If cables come from below, I would think a wooden floor. MFT joint under the floor and a spur up to socket.
Worse case is concrete floor. Just make your joint in the old box and put a very flat blank plate over it.

It does sound like the spark is out of his depth. And his “solutions” make him out to be a bit of a t!t.
 
You definitely need a 2nd opinion, especially if you are holding money back..
Before engaging somebody to rectify his work though you should give him notice of what the issues are and the opportunity to rectify them himself

I'm sure I said something like that on page one. agree whole heartedly.
 
@littlespark - Thanks. What's an MFT joint sorry?
@James the Spark1976 - You did, which is affirming for me. Cheers..

The reason i've opted to do it this way round. ie. reach out for advice prior to emailing him is that i've already has the answers to the questions in a round about way. Howeverm he has asked me to let him know of any issues prior to the last visit to finish off 2 small pieces of work. However without the electrical knowledge and being able to make suggestions and challenge the reasoning, the email/discussion could be a bit one sided.

I'd like the job to finish with the outstanding issues resolved, however if he turns round and says, "well.. Thats your parts" or " I can do that, but i feel it's outside of the quote and could take days to rectify" or "I can do that, but it's going to be very destructive (even if it's not)" then armed with a little knowledge i can help sway the convo.
 
the socket that you want moving up should not be an issue. joint cables with crimps or soldered joints, heat shrink over, plaster in.
as for certification, should be a MWC ( minor works certificate) issued on completion.
 
MFT = maintenance free termination.
Basically a joint that doesn’t need to be accessed in the future.
Crimps, as @telectrix mentions or spring loaded push in connections.
Screw terminals in the old choc block are not classed as maintenance free
 
MFT = maintenance free termination.
Basically a joint that doesn’t need to be accessed in the future.
Crimps, as @telectrix mentions or spring loaded push in connections.
Screw terminals in the old choc block are not classed as maintenance free
Thank goodness for that, I thought for a moment you had left your MFT under the floor, which would make for rather an expensive job.
 
the socket that you want moving up should not be an issue. joint cables with crimps or soldered joints, heat shrink over, plaster in.
as for certification, should be a MWC ( minor works certificate) issued on completion.
Finally somebody states the simple and obvious. Why can’t this cable be crimped and sleeved. Absolutely no need for MF junction boxes.
 
Any idea why the blender has tripped my downstairs breaker? Annoyingly when the extension was built they took the lounge feed and extended it round the kitchen but never bought it back to the CU (Concrete floors maybe put them off) So when the CU was upgraded this year a different sparks could only throw in a 16amp fuse as opposed to a 32amp. Could it simply just be a matter of to much on the circuit when the blender is running with it's 1560w motor?
Oh dear that is a bad news your kitchen needs a ring main 32A preferably on it own circuit suggest you get a proper sparks in to see how little damage he can do to rectify this
 

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